Monthly Archives: June 2013

Getting Closer

I left Thursday morning for Madrid, and after a few little hiccups, I arrived around 9 o’clock this morning. Unfortunately, when our flight was delayed in Chicago and then we were put on a different flight to Madrid, skipping what would have been my second lay-over city, Boston, the luggage was separated from its owners and is still in Boston. Supposedly it will be delivered tomorrow afternoon to the place I’m staying, and I really hope it is. I packed two large suitcases full (right to the limit of 50 lbs. each) of things to leave behind permanently in Munich. I had only my essential documents and papers for getting a library card to the Biblioteca Nacional on my person, so I have no toothbrush, clean clothes, or the like. Happily, as I was taking my documents out of my small backpack, I found an old t-shirt that was supposed to be in the donation box a few weeks ago. I guess it was left behind for just the occasion of sleeping tonight. At least I can take this dirty shirt off for a while.

I am spending two weeks in Madrid now for researching books pertaining to my dissertation. The excellent thing about this situation is that it got my flight to Europe paid for, so I will be able to see Raul very soon!

Raul and I came to Spain in 2005, so this is my second time here. Madrid is pretty much like I remember it – not too enticing from the approach by air (it’s pretty arid), many people, and kind of dirty. I guess those last two describe most all capital cities, which is why I don’t care for them too much. Already today I’ve had my fill of people for many days. I took several Metro rides between the airport, the apartment I’m staying at, and the National Library. It seems like those stations generally smell filthy. It looks like there’s a more direct route by bus to the Library, so I will try that on Monday.

I’m staying in a room in an apartment rented by a Peruvian couple, for the really excellent price of $28/night, whereas most hotels and other apartment rooms in the same area were 70, 80, 90 euros a night. I have my own bath and access to their kitchen and WiFi (Wee-Fee). It was a great deal, and it’s very clean. As to be expected, it’s quite small, which isn’t a problem except for the shower. I literally could not turn around without either banging the shower door with my elbows or accidentally turning off the water. First world problems – at least the water was hot.

I wanted to make sure I went by the Library today, so after I stopped by the apartment, I just took a quick shower, put my dirty clothes back on, and headed out. It was pretty easy to navigate the Metro system and find it. The grandiose building sticks out from the ones around it. Spain has an old reputation of bureaucracy and “come back tomorrow” mentality, so I was thrilled when it took less than ten minutes total to get my researcher card. Armed with a gas bill to establish my residence, a letter of introduction signed by my thesis director, and my passport, I entered to find out what I needed to do. A colleague of mine had said it took her about 30 minutes when she did it last year. I had to stop at four desks and security before I could get it, but it turned out without a hitch. I requested the book I wanted, they assigned me a desk number, and then a red light flashed on my desk when I could pick up my book. I started reading one of the primary sources I’ll be working with.

I tried to stay as long as possible, but I was so sleepy from not having slept much on the plane that I had to leave. I went by a grocery store on the way home and purchased the requisite Taranu foods : yogurt, granola, salami, cheese, water, baguette, and a red bell pepper. I did not have success finding apples. I had a late lunch and then caught up on some emails. I’m trying to make myself stay awake in order to adjust to the time, but I’m having a hard time fighting it. That’s why I am bumbling through this entry. Good night!

Firenze

Having coffee in the shadow of Il Duomo.

Having coffee in the shadow of Il Duomo.

This past week, I took two days of leave from work to meet up with my friends Chris and Thea in Florence, Italy. They moved to Florida from St Louis, so it has been a while since I’ve seen them. Lauren visited them when she took a trip to Florida with her family earlier this year. I think I got the better end of that deal.

The Kelces are on a Mediterranean cruise, and they stopped for one day in the port of Livorno, Italy. From there, they met me in Florence for about six hours, before returning to their ship. I had intended to take an overnight train from Munich, but that was sold out. Instead, I flew and spent two nights at a friendly guy’s house I found on Airbnb. Overall, I think that was cheaper than the train would have been, but I still look forward to taking an overnight train ride someday.

On the morning of Chris and Thea’s arrival, I rode the clunky bicycle that my host provided me to meet them at the train station. I got my bearings and determined that they could be arriving at one of two possible platforms. My first guess was correct, and soon we were on our way. Thea led us into the heart of the old city, and as we took a break at the foot of the massive cathedral, we all decided that we wanted to climb to the top of Il Duomo. It was a hot and long climb, but we were indeed rewarded with an impressive vista.

View from Il Duomo

View from Il Duomo

At the top of the Duomo

At the top of Il Duomo

We replenished our energy reserves with a lunch of pizza (of course) at a restaurant near the Palazzo Vecchio in Piazza della Signoria. At the entrance of the Palazzo Vecchio stands a replica of Michelangelo’s David. The original was moved to an indoor location in order to preserve it.

After lunch, it took just a couple minutes to reach Ponte Vecchio, an old Medieval bridge that still houses shops. Today, all the shops are gold and silver smiths, but in centuries past, it also had other types of businesses, such as butcher shops.

Ponte Vecchio

Ponte Vecchio

We tried to find some shade in a park, away from the bustling crowds of tourists, but there was nothing open to us, so we decided to cool off under an umbrella at a café with misters. I hydrated, while the Kelces had a cold beer, and then I saw them off to their train with only a minute to spare.

I left the train station on the bike, heading back into the old city. I finally did find a park to read in for a time, though it was rather small and the din of traffic was ever present. At least the people around me were all Italians, as the park was somewhat away from the main sights. I felt glad to have seen my friends, but by this time I was starting to acutely feel the loneliness of being so far from home, from friends and family, and most of all from Lauren.

Relaxing at the Giardino Bardini

Relaxing at the Giardino Bardini

The following day, my flight was not until 5pm, so I had a good bit of time left to fill with more of Florence. I debated going to the Uffizi Gallery, but in the end I was driven to find the green places of the world once more. I decided to visit the Boboli Gardens, behind the Palazzo Pitti. I had been led to believe that I’d have a nice view of Florence from these hilly gardens, but the best view appeared to be from a fortress above the gardens, which was closed. Nonetheless, I was pleased, and my ticket also included entry to another garden, the Giardino Bardini. This garden was a fantastic treat. I was rewarded with woody lanes, fantastic views of the city, the lovely scents of flowers, and all of this with virtually no tourists. Evidently it has only recently been opened to the public and it isn’t well known yet.

Terrace at the Giardino Bardini

Terrace at the Giardino Bardini

Overall, it was a good trip, and it is a good illustration of one of the reasons Lauren and I want to live in Europe. Here, we’ll have easy access to a multitude of countries and cultures. Munich itself is well placed, being relatively centrally located. I look forward to the next rendezvous with old friends.

Time with Friends…On Both Continents

Tonight was a special evening spent with my closest friends, and in a happy coincidence, Raul will be meeting the missing members of our St. Louis gang in just a couple hours in Florence, Italy. It’s just a shame that we couldn’t all be in Italy for this reunion.

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After enjoying a truly beautiful and mild May and first week of June, typical St. Louis summer weather is back with a vengeance. It was in the 90s till late in the evening with high humidity. Nevertheless, we convened at Forest Park, the expansive and verdant gem of St. Louis and rented paddle boats as if we were young couples on first dates. It’s a good thing Betsy wasn’t on a date though, or one may have raised one’s eyebrows at the coquettish manner in which she “tried” to cover herself as she paddled in a dress. A grand time was had by all even though we were sticky with sweat by the end of our lake tour.

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After boating, we returned to the Boat House for dinner where we were able to review our impressions of the season finale of our beloved Game of Thrones, which we had all watched in time for our meet-up. The King is tired.

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Sung looked a little tired too, as he took the liberty of unbuttoning his shirt at dinner to take better advantage of the air conditioning.

Soon Sung was back to himself, and he dutifully returned to his task of picking out our own sigils. Trent’s is a river, after the River Trent as I understand it, and Kari’s is a moose because that’s all there is in Canada. (Confirm or deny, Kari?) We imagined theirs together with the moose peacefully lapping up water from the river. I told Sung Raul’s name is from a word for Wolf, but Sung said Raul’s sigil is a beaver. Betsy kindly thought it was because of his industriousness, but Sung explained that it’s due to a physical resemblance. I must disagree; Raul doesn’t even have the teeth for a beaver, the most obvious characteristic! Sung deemed me a phoenix because he rises from the ashes of a fire like my red hair. Betsy is a horse with a flowing mane, and Sung is a sloth who never comes down from his tree. All in all, we make a formidable group.

As for the events on the European continent, I will let Raul pick up the story.