Tag Archives: itinerary

Day 3 – Lecker!

At breakfast this morning, Raul and Lauren socialized with a couple from California. Since they too were fans of Rick Steves’ travel guides, they shared the same itinerary for the next few days.

Raul and Lauren used the remaining time on their 24-hour transit pass to take the subway to the train station. Raul wasn’t sure if the pass was worth it, since nobody ever checked tickets.

The journey from Vienna to Hallstatt was on two trains and a bus. The first train segment was a lovely experience. Arriving early to the station, they were able to secure facing seats with a table in between–plenty of leg room! As marvelous as they found the comfort of travel by train to be, they found the natural beauty of the passing countryside even more wondrous.

In Hallstatt, Raul and Lauren looked for a hotel room for their second night, as Gasthof Simony had only one night available. They procured lodging within a private home overlooking the Market Square.

They spent the rest of the day exploring the quaint, lake-side hamlet on foot. Along the way, they paid a visit to the Catholic Church and its unique Bone Chapel. Since burial space was limited, it was customary to re-use plots after a dozen years. The remains of the previous inhabitants were dug up, and the skulls were laid to rest in the Bone Chapel. As a sign of love, various symbols were beautifully painted onto the skulls.

After a dinner of the typical Austrian Wiener Schnitzel and Apfelstrudel, they went for a hike above the town. It was particularly enjoyable with all the day-trippers having departed Hallstatt by that time. The hike afforded rich views of the town, the lake, and the surrounding mountains, many of which are still dotted with snow.

Prior to retiring for the night, they relaxed on the lake-front garden terrace of their hotel. While the sun went down, they indulged in a second dessert of Eis (ice-cream) accompanied by Holunder gespritzt (elderflower soda) for Raul and an Almdudler (Austrian herbed lemonade) for Lauren. Lecker!

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Hallstatt

Time Plan Sleep in
Day 03 Friday 18 May Hallstatt
07:40 Depart Wien Westbahnhof platform 9 on OIC 860
Total duration: 3h 45m, €47,50
09:59 Arrive Attnang-Puchheim, transfer to platform 21 on REX 3412/3446
10:11 Depart Attnang-Puchheim
11:25 Arrive Hallstatt train station
11:30 Take ferry “Stefanie” across the lake to Hallstatt
11:45 Drop bags at Gasthof Simony
Tel: +43 06134/8231
info@gasthof-simony.at
12:00 Get information on two-day hike from TI
12:30 Self-guided walk around the old town
13:00 Check in at Gasthof Simony, cash only, €70 for one night confirmed
13:30 ▲▲Catholic Church and Bone Chapel, €1,50, 10:00-18:00
14:30 Take a hike, perhaps to Waldbachstrub waterfall
17:30 Take a rowboat/canoe on the lake

Ferry info
TI

Sights in Hallstatt
  • ▲▲Catholic Church and Bone Chapel, €1,50, 10:00-18:00
  • Hallstatt Museum, €7,50, 10:00-18:00
  • Salt-Mine Tour, €24 combo-ticket mine & funicular round-trip, 09:00-16:00, arrive early or late to avoid crowds, ask for English tour

Near Hallstatt
  • ▲▲Dachstein Mountain Cable Car and Caves, €37 combo-ticket, 9:20-16:00, first and last cable car at 8:40, 17:00

Activities
  • ▲Lake Trip, €8+ for ferry, €12-13/hr for boat rental until 19:00
  • ▲Local Hikes

Day 2 – Schloss Schönbrunn

A breakfast of cheeses, meats, and bread with jam was thoroughly enjoyed by Raul and Lauren. This meal was reminiscent of breakfasts they were served throughout Romania. Having a full day ahead of them, they set out to tour the Ringstrasse, the boulevard that Emperor Franz Josef built to replace the city’s medieval wall.

They started the circuit near the Staatsoper, the Opera, on a tram. Originally they had planned to cycle around the Ring, but Lauren was not enthused about biking in 45 degree weather and high winds. Leaving the tram at Stadtpark, Vienna’s beautiful city park that honors many great Viennese musicians and composers with statues, they strolled through the park and took in the flowers and waterfowl.

At the edge of the park, they noticed the city bike station which offers free bicycles for people to use, so Raul convinced Lauren they should ride, after all. They continued around the Ring, stopping at many sights along the way, and finished back at the Staatsoper. Since it was getting late in the day, they skipped ahead in their itinerary and took the subway to Schönbrunn Palace.

This magnificent palace, which is said to be Versaille’s only rival, was the summer residence of the Hapsburgs. Despite forgetting to reserve their tickets in advance, they had no problem or wait getting in. They took a tour of forty rooms, all furnished in imperial splendor. After the tour, they spent a few hours strolling the expansive palace gardens.

Having worked up an appetite to match the magnificence of Schönbrunn, they returned to central Vienna and attempted to dine at a less than inviting restaurant near the Hofburg Palace but decided to take their business elsewhere. They decided on Gyros, a Greek/Turkish hole in the wall, with a genial and attentive proprietor.

The journal entries for Days 0 and 1 remain handwritten in their hotel room but will be posted at the earliest convenience.

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Time Plan Sleep in
Day 02 Thursday 17 May Wien
08:00 ▲▲Self-guided bike tour around the Ringstrasse
09:30 Wien City Walk
10:00 ▲▲Kaisergruft, the Remains of the Hapsburgs, €4
10:30 ▲▲▲St. Stephen’s Cathedral (Stephansdom), €3,50 main nave
11:30 ▲St. Peter’s Church (Peterkirche)
12:30 ▲▲New Palace Museums: Armor, Music, and Ancient Greek Statues, €18 combo with Kunsthistorisches Museum
14:30 ▲▲▲Schönbrunn Palace (Schloss Schönbrunn), €13,50 Grand Tour, closes at 17:00
16:30 ▲▲▲Kunsthistorisches Museum €12 or €18 combo, closes at 21:00
18:30 ▲▲▲Opera (Staatsoper), €3-4, La clemenza di Tito starts at 19:00
or…
Donauinsel (Danube Island) bike ride

Day 1 – Imperial Baubles

After a three hour lay-over in Amsterdam, Raul and Lauren arrived in Vienna at 13:30. Lauren deftly guided them to Schweizer Pension, with help from Raul’s hints along the way.

The weather was cooler than they had anticipated and included unexpected precipitation, so they unpacked the appropriate clothing. In order not to waste their short time in Vienna, they set out directly for the Hofburg Treasury, a collection of Imperial baubles. Lauren was impressed by a single emerald jewel, the size of a baseball, while Raul particularly enjoyed the 900-year-old red silk and gold thread mantle, worn by the Holy Roman Emperors at their coronations.

After visiting the Treasury, they went to the Dorotheum, an auction house–essentially a museum in which one could purchase the exhibits–but they quickly realized that they were beyond their means, with individual items costing anywhere from several thousand dollars to several hundred thousand.

Both were pretty hungry by this point, so they picked an Italian place to have dinner. For the antipasti, they ordered the caprese clasica, a plate of basil, tomato, and fresh mozzarella slices served with delicious garlic bread. Raul chose salmon, while Lauren had Argentinian beef fillets, and, for the first time, she ordered the beef medium-well, instead of well-done, thanks to the advice of a friend. Overall, it was a highlight in their life-long culinary experience.

With legs weary from their Monday night soccer games, as well as from travelling, they skipped the Opera and stumbled back to the pension for a much-needed rest.

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Oberes Belvedere
Time Plan Sleep in
Day 01 Wednesday 16 May Wien
08:05 Arrive Amsterdam
11:40 Depart Amsterdam on KLM flight 1845
Duration: 1h 50m
13:30 Arrive Wien
15:00 Check in at Schweizer Pension, cash only, €196 for two nights confirmed
Directions:
  1. Take S-Bahn S-7 yellow line from underground tracks outside the arrivals hall to Wien-Mitte.
  2. Go up the left escalator, turn left, walk until you see U4 on the right.
  3. Take U4 in the direction of Heiligenstadt for two stops, get out at Schottenring.
  4. Exit Salztorbrücke, go up escalator, cross over tramlines and turn left, take the first street on the right, Heinrichsgasse 2.

Tel: +43 01/533-8156
schweizer.pension@chello.at

15:30 ▲▲▲Hofburg Treasury (Weltliche und Geistliche Schatzkammer), €12, closes at 18:00
17:00 Vienna’s Auction House, the Dorotheum closes at 18:00
18:30 ▲▲▲Opera (Staatsoper), €3-4, La traviata starts at 19:00
or…
Donauinsel (Danube Island) bike ride

Transit info
Transit map
Austrian Train Schedules
German Train Schedules
Austria Rail Pass – $151

Sights in Wien
  • ▲▲Self-guided tram tour around the Ringstrasse, 10:00-18:00
  • Self-guided walk
  • ▲▲▲Opera (Staatsoper), €6,50 for tour, €3-4 for standing room ticket
  • ▲St. Peter’s Church (Peterkirche), Mon-Fri 07:00-19:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-19:00, organ concerts Mon-Fri at 15:00, Sat-Sun at 20:00
  • ▲▲▲St. Stephen’s Cathedral (Stephansdom), €3,50 main nave, Mon-Sat 09:00-11:30 & 13:30-16:30, Sun 13:30-16:30
  • ▲▲▲Hofburg Palace Imperial Apartments (Kaiserappartements), Treasury (Weltliche und Geistliche Schatzkammer), €10,50 for both?, Apartments 09:00-17:00, Treasury Wed-Mon 10:00-18:00
  • Lipizzaner Museum, €5 or €15 combo ticket, 09:00-18:00, training sessions 10:00-12:00
  • ▲Augustinian Church (Augustinerkirche)
  • ▲▲Albertina Museum, €9,50, 10:00-18:00
  • ▲▲Kaisergruft, the Remains of the Hapsburgs, €4, 10:00-18:00
  • ▲Imperial Furniture Collection (Kaiserliches Hofmobiliendepot) €7, Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00
  • ▲▲▲Kunsthistorisches Museum €12 or €18 combo, Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, Thu until 21:00
  • ▲▲New Palace Museums: Armor, Music, and Ancient Greek Statues, €18 combo with Kunsthistorisches Museum, Wed-Mon 10:00-18:00
  • Vienna’s Auction House, the Dorotheum Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat 09:00-17:00
  • ▲Naschmarkt, Mon-Fri 06:00-18:30, Sat 06:00-17:00 (get picnic food)
  • Liechtenstein Museum, €10, Fri-Tue 10:00-17:00
  • ▲▲Belvedere Palace, €9,50, 10:00-18:00
  • ▲▲▲Schönbrunn Palace (Schloss Schönbrunn), €13,50 or 19,50 for Classic Pass Plus, 8:30-17:00, least crowded from 12:00-14:00, call ahead for reservation (tel. 01/8111-3239)

Activities
  • ▲Stadtpark (City Park)
  • ▲Prater
  • Donauinsel (Danube Island) – bike ride
  • A Walk in the Vienna Woods (Wienerwald)
  • Concert or Opera
  • Café
Cycling
  • Citybike Wien, €1 registration (do online before trip), first hour free, second hour €1, third hour €2, €4/hour after that
  • Pedal Power, €5/hour, €17 four hours, 08:30-18:00
  • Crazy Chicken, €3/hour, €12/day, 08:30-19:00
  • Reichsbrücke, €5,40/hour, €27/day, 09:30 to dusk, near the bridge for Danube Island biking

Day 0 – Engage!

Make it so.
Raul and Lauren were driven to the airport by Emilian and Grandmother. For this trip, they packed in only one large backpack and bought a daypack to carry on. The first incident occurred before they even left St. Louis. After taking a family at home, they forgot their bag of sandwiches and travel snacks. Luckily, Emilian was able to retrieve it for them while they checked in, and they were finally on their way.

When it came time to pass through security, Raul and Lauren noticed numerous travellers being sent through the full-body imager, as only one metal detector was in use. Neither relished the thought of being imaged, but only Raul “opted out.” He submitted to the enhanced groping technique.

From St. Louis, they flew without incident to Detroit and boarded their trans-Atlantic flight for Amsterdam.

Time Plan Sleep in
Day 00 Tuesday 15 May airplane
14:10 Depart St Louis on Delta flight 6165, seats 08CD
Duration: 1h 35m, Total: 16h 20m
Aircraft: Canadair Regional Jet 700
16:45 Arrive Detroit
18:05 Depart Detroit on KLM flight 6119, seats 24AB
Duration: 8h 00m
Aircraft: Airbus Industrie A330