Day 9 – Seilpark

Raul and Lauren awoke to yet another cloudy day. They deliberated over whether to do their mountain excursion today or tomorrow and ended up choosing to stick to their planned itinerary. They purchased their gondola tickets for Mount Pilatus and got in line to board. Ahead of them was an Asian couple, and Raul and Lauren decided to let them ride alone in the gondola, even though there was room for four per cabin. Thinking they would get to ride in private, they boarded the next one but quickly realized that the two older gentlemen behind them were more focused on efficiency than courtesy.

The first order of business in this excursion was a few hours of Alpine recreation. Disembarking at Fräkmüntegg, the tree-line of Mount Pilatus, they were the first in line for the mile-long summer toboggan run. Raul breezed through the run quickly, while Lauren rode the brake most of the way down.

After this quick diversion, they proceeded to the Seilpark (Rope Park). Here, there are ten courses of varying difficulty, wherein one must negotiate a series of challenges utilizing ropes and platforms high among the trees. They donned their harnesses, helmets, and gloves and listened to the comprehensive instructions. Then they completed the obligatory, introductory course. Lauren was ready to quit, but she found the willpower to go through a second, slightly more challenging segment. It wasn’t long until she was in tears, and this was the last one she did. Raul was eager to continue and chose a blue course, marked Difficult, while Lauren watched and photographed from below. Here, the height was ramped up considerably and lacking were the handholds present in the previous courses. There were also sections with netting that were annoying because one has to stop to hook and rehook the safety carabiners with every step. Lucky for Raul, his memory has already erased the terror he too felt at the dizzying heights in the trees.

After a few more courses that culminated with a leap of faith from the top of a tower, Raul and Lauren ascended to the summit of Mount Pilatus via cable car. They took in the views and ate the sandwich they had packed. Finally, they descended the other side of the mountain on the world’s steepest cogwheel train with grades up to 48%. That’s more than halfway to a right angle!

At the base of the mountain, they boarded a ferry that would take them back to Luzern. The evening was spent eating on the riverfront again–this time, traditional Swiss fondue.

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Time Plan Sleep in
Day 09 Thursday 24 May Luzern
Pilatus timetables
Lake Luzern timetables

Luzern area day trip
9:00 City bus #1 to Kriens, walk 10m to the gondola station following Pilatus signs
9:30 Gondola to Fräkmüntegg, S₣34
Duration: 30m
Saved S₣34
10:00 Luge ride (Fräkigaudi), S₣8, 10:00-12:00, 13:15-17:00
10:30 Pilatus Rope Park (Seilpark), S₣27, 10:00-17:00
13:30 Cable car to observation platform at Pilatus Kulm
13:45 Hikes at Pilatus summit
15:00 Cogwheel train to Alpnachstad
Duration: 40m
16:35 Boat to Luzern, free
Duration: 1h 5m
Saved S₣19
17:40 Bicycle ride along lakeside paths

Day 8 – Should Have Listened to Karl Pilkington

Raul and Lauren originally had hopes for a five-hour hike today on Ebenalp. Last night, however, they found out that several trails were closed due to an avalanche last week. They had decided to have a go on some trails which were open, but as luck would have it, a thick cloud enveloped the mountaintop all morning, making it impossible to hike a great distance. And since clouds are full of moisture, it would have been an unpleasantly wet trek in any case.

After dining on a breakfast of bread, jams, and the regional Appenzeller cheese, they decided then to simply walk back up to the mountain summit to take the cable car down to the train station and thence proceed on to their next destination, Luzern.

Signage on the trails gives approximate lengths of hikes in minutes, but with the weight of their backpacks, it took Lauren and Raul double the posted time to navigate the trail.

Sadly, they had put off taking many pictures the previous night thinking they would take them in better light the next day. The joke was on them because the cloud cover resulted in a visibility of about ten yards this morning. On the bright side, this is a reason to return here on a future trip.

Once in Luzern, they set about securing lodging for the next three nights. Despite travelling before the commencement of the high season, they are finding it surprisingly difficult to travel without reservations. Hotels they planned to patronize have often been full.

With their bags stowed at their hostel, they enjoyed a relaxing dinner on the banks of Luzern’s Reuss River and a stroll through the medieval Old Town.

On the way back to the hostel, they explored Luzern’s Rail City, an underground shopping mall at the train station, and purchased some snacks they have come to enjoy. Sadly, these will not be available to buy in the U.S., so that sucks. This is why one should not try foods which are not available where one lives. Best case, you hate it; worst case, you love it and can’t have it at home.

Also on the way home, they caught the last ten minutes of a high school soccer match. It was a close game, so the crowd was very excited and the play spirited.

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Ebenalp view

Time Plan Sleep in
Day 08 Wednesday 23 May – ▲▲▲Happy Anniversary! Luzern
08:00 Hike Route 10, 5 hours
15:00 Take cable car down to Wasserauen after picking up bags from Aescher
Saved S₣13,50
15:19 Depart Wasserauen on R 1152
Total duration: 3h 1m, trains approximately every hour
Saved S₣26
16:06 Arrive Herisau, transfer to IR 2426
16:10 Depart Herisau
18:20 Arrive Luzern
18:35 Check in at Backpackers Luzern, S₣82 double room, no breakfast (3 nights)
Tel: +41 360-0420
info@backpackerslucerne.ch
19:30 Dinner at Nix in der Laterne, make reservation
Tel: +41 240-2543
info@nixinderlaterne.ch
Transit info
Lake Luzern info

Sights

Sleeping

Eating
  • Opus, upscale, S₣25-38
  • Nix in der Laterne, romantic, S₣50 2-course dinner, S₣35 plates, S₣20 lunch
  • Restaurant Taube, traditional Swiss, Rösti S₣26, S₣18 2-course lunch
  • Restaurant Schiff, traditional Swiss, S₣25-35
  • Bakeries: Hug Bakery/Café and Heini Bakery/Café
  • Self-Service Cafeteria: Manora, S₣6-15, closed Sun

Day 7 – Barfussweg

The adventurers left Salzburg with the first light of day. They wished to get to Switzerland as early as possible. Once they crossed into Switzerland, they needed to validate their Swiss Pass, which allows them to use all public transportation in Switzerland without having to buy tickets. This is extremely convenient, but they missed their connection in St. Margrethen while they waited for their pass to be validated. They arrived in Appenzell a half-hour behind schedule as a result. Still, they made time to do the Barfussweg (Barefoot Walk) and caught the last lift of the day up to Ebenalp.

The Barefoot Walk features a variety of materials on which to walk, such as large, smooth stones, sharp gravel, wood chips, grass, mud, tree stumps, and some stretches of asphalt. The path took them through farms in the Appenzeller countryside, and they were treated to a peaceful symphony of cow and goat bells ringing from all the surrounding hills. There were also stations of very cold alpine water using principles from a Swiss therapist, Sebastian Kneipp, who advocated the use of varying water temperatures and pressures for good health. Lauren and Raul think Kneipp had a good idea, for they experienced the invigorating properties of mountain water for themselves on this walk as well as in Hallstatt when they dipped their feet into a cold stream after the long hike to the waterfall.

They experienced a rarity in Swiss punctuality while travelling to the Ebenalp lift. Two trains they waited for were several minutes tardy. This is why they were on the very last lift of the day to Ebenalp. Once up on the mountain, they could only hope that Berggasthaus Äscher would have beds for them. Had they been turned away, they would have faced an arduous hike down the mountain in the fading light with all their belongings on their backs. Fortunately, there was room for them at the inn, so they unloaded and ate a hearty dinner of rösti, a traditional Swiss dish akin to hashbrowns. Raul ordered his with melted Appenzeller cheese and two fried eggs on top, while Lauren had hers plain. Raul says it’s because she’s boring. Lauren realized that Romanians eat their salad with the main course, and not before, because they don’t drink water during the meal. Lauren has learned to spread out the meager eight ounces she is given throughout a three-course dinner.

At the moment, Raul is enjoying a kaffe lutz (sp?), which is an alchemical concoction of unknown composition. It probably has some spirits and coffee in it, and it’s hot, which is good, as it is unseasonably chilly and also quite cloudy.

Berggasthaus Äscher is one of a score and eight mountain inns in the area surrounding Ebenalp which serve as a refuge for the mountain-top adventurers. Äscher is uniquely situated in and under a cliff. The cliff prominently forms the back wall of the building. They are sleeping on a mat in an upstairs space for eight to ten souls. The sleeping quarters have no external heat source. The only heating in the building is a wood-stove in the dining area. Thus, they will rely on their own bodies’ warmth to get them through the night.

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Alpine Meadow

Time Plan Sleep in
Day 07 Tuesday 22 May Ebenalp
Swiss rail network map
Swiss rail timetables
Ebenalp hiking map
06:53 Depart Salzburg Hauptbahnhof platform 3DF on IC 118
Total duration (to St. Margrethen): 5h 10m, €51,90
11:38 Arrive Bregenz, transfer to platform 1AB on S 3 (Train-No. 5769)
11:48 Depart Bregenz
12:03 Arrive St. Margrethen, transfer to platform 1 on S 2 (Train-No. 23250)
12:08 Depart St. Margrethen
Duration: 1h 16m
Saved S₣6,60
12:50 Arrive Herisau, transfer to R 1127
12:54 Depart Herisau
13:24 Arrive Appenzell! Find somewhere to deposit bags
13:33 Take train to Jakobsbad for Barefoot Walk, next train 30 minutes later
13:45 Barefoot Walk (Barfussweg), 1,5 hours
15:19 Return to Appenzell from Gontenbad, next train 30 minutes later
15:30 Take train to Wasserauen, next train 30 minutes later
15:45 Take Ebenalp lift up the mountain, last lift at 17:00, S₣9,50/13,50
Saved S₣9,50
16:00 Hike and check in to Berggasthaus Aescher, dorm bed S₣45, cash only (1 night)
Tel: +41 071-799-1142
info@aescher-ai.ch
16:30 Hike Route 1, 50 minutes

Day 6 – Better than Madison County Trails!

Did the Taranusauruses make it back safely to their hostel last night? Yes, of course; this writing proves it. After getting directions several more times, they finally found a flight of stairs that led up the little mountain. The path was well-lit but still creepy due its deserted state and also because it is located in a thick forest.

They were up and ready to go before their roommates stirred and before the hostel’s free breakfast was served. The next hour was spent failing to find a post office, but they did patronize several bakeries. Raul and Lauren were the first to arrive at the meeting point for Fräulein Maria’s Sound of Music bicycle tour. If you look for them on Facebook, there might be some pictures of the Taranusauruses from today.

Two dozen people showed up for the popular tour, and so they were split into two groups. Their guide, Rupert, was experienced and entertaining as he took them past several locations featured in the musical. It was a nice way to see Salzburg. The first half of the tour took place in the Old Town of Salzburg, followed by a relaxing ride through the picturesque countryside on its outskirts. The entirety of the route afforded stunning views of the mountains near Salzburg. The rest of their group was comprised of a young couple from the Midwest, a family from South Africa, and four young Taiwanese.

After the bike tour, Raul and Lauren took a leisurely walk through the Old Town, following the self-guided walk in their guidebook. They took in all the major sights, including the massive Salzburg Cathedral, a restaurant where Charlemagne is said to have eaten in 803 A.D., and Getreidegasse, the historical commercial center of the town. On that street, Raul sampled several homemade spirits at a century-old establishment named Sporer. The spirits were delicious (lecker!).

They decided not to attend a concert since they are leaving early in the morning for Switzerland and instead, wrapped up the evening with dinner and completing their preparations for the next day’s trip to the train station from the top of the mountain. They bought stamps for postcards and later realized that the woman had charged them double. Their expectations for recompense were low, but they returned to the shop anyway. The woman was immediately apologetic and grateful to see that they had realized her mistake and returned. She corrected the charge and even offered a bag of chocolates as a token of apology. The chocolates are delicious (lecker!).

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Time Plan Sleep in
Day 06 Monday 21 May Salzburg
09:30 ▲▲The Sound of Music Bike Tour, €24, €2 discount with book
13:00 ▲▲▲Salzburg’s Old Town Self-Guided Walk
13:30 ▲Salzburg Panorama 1829, €2, 09:00-17:00
15:00 ▲▲Salzburg Cathedral (Salzburger Dom), free, Mon-Sat 09:00-18:00, Sun 13:00-18:00
20:00 ▲▲Concert

Day 5 – It’s a Small World

Lauren and Raul would like to wish Caitelin a very happy birthday today! Happy 27th! Lauren misses you very much and can’t wait to talk to you again soon!

Days 0 to 4 have been updated with the journal entries. Unfortunately, the computer Raul and Lauren are using in Salzburg will not allow pictures to be transferred off the camera, so those will be posted at a later time.

Raul and Lauren said good-bye to their kind host Gerhard and mosied along to the boat dock. They were pleasantly surprised to find Ian and Brenda there, waiting for the same ferry to take them across the lake to the train station. They spent the journey to Salzburg sharing travel stories, and Raul and Lauren were interested to learn about life in California.

At the transfer point, Lauren and Raul decided to ride in a six-person compartment and ending up sharing it with a couple from Seattle, whom they had previously met on the ferry in Hallstatt. They gave Raul and Lauren advice about hikes around Salzburg and also about working for the Semester at Sea university program.

It is always nice to meet and get to know interesting people while travelling.

In Salzburg, they ascended Mönchsberg, a small mountain in the city, to Gasthaus Stadtalm, the hostel they had chosen for their lodging. Fortunately, they had beds available.

Next, Raul and Lauren made their way to Festung Hohensalzburg, a fortress overlooking the city. They opted to walk up rather than take the funicular. Near the top, they were dismayed to find that they would have to pay most of what it would have cost to ride the funicular to enter the fortress anyway. The fortress has a good view of the city below, but it was not worth the effort or cost to get there. At least the entrance ticket they were forced to buy included a ride down the funicular.

Also inside the fortress grounds, they ran into Brenda and Ian again as they were going to a concert. Lauren was especially glad to see Brenda, because she was “having a rough time,” as Ian put it, and so was Lauren. The heat, hunger, and disorientation was taking its toll. It would be nice to see a water fountain once in a while.

Raul and Lauren had a quick dinner at Saran Essbar Restaurant. They have begun to see a pattern of exceptional quality in restaurants run by non-Europeans, who are more attentive and eager to please. The food was tasty, but they were in a hurry to get to a concert and could not linger for dessert. Unfortunately, they discovered that the “nearly nightly” concerts at Mirabell Palace were not offered that night.

They meandered back to the old town and tried to find a way up Mönchsberg now that the elevator is not running. Will they make it back to their hostel tonight?

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Time Plan Sleep in
Day 05 Sunday 20 May Salzburg
07:00 Hike back to Hallstatt, take train to Salzburg
17:00 Check in at Gasthaus Stadtalm, €38/night (2 nights)
Tel: +43 0662/841-729
info@diestadtalm.com
17:30 ▲▲Hohensalzburg Fortress (Festung), €10,50, 09:00-19:00, until 22:00 when there’s a concert
19:00 ▲Mönchsberg Walk
20:00 ▲▲Concert at the Mirabell Palace (Schlosskonzerte), €29, usually at 20:00
Sights in Salzburg
  • ▲▲▲Salzburg’s Old Town Self-Guided Walk
  • ▲▲Salzburg Cathedral (Salzburger Dom), free, Mon-Sat 09:00-18:00, Sun 13:00-18:00
  • ▲Salzburg Panorama 1829, €2, 09:00-17:00
  • ▲▲Hohensalzburg Fortress (Festung), €10,50, 09:00-19:00, until 22:00 when there’s a concert
  • ▲Mönchsberg Walk
  • ▲Mirabell Gardens and Palace (Schloss)

Near Salzburg

Activities

▲▲Concerts

Day 4 – Raul Holds a Baby

Raul and Lauren dropped their bags off at their host Gerhard’s private room after breakfast. Having packed warmer layers in their daypack, they took a bus to the Dachstein cable car.

They first ascended to 4,500 ft, Schönbergalm, the half-way point up Krippenstein Mountain. Here they planned to visit the Eishöhle, a giant ice cave at the top of a steep 15-minute climb on foot. Lauren was glad that the beautiful snow still covered the landscape. She was quite excited also by the presence of springtime buds on flowers and trees and repeatedly pointed them out to Raul. Characteristically, Raul was reserved with his emotions.

The tour of the Eishöhle lasted about an hour and was accompanied by what must have been a fascinating and informative commentary; alas, it was entirely in German. Nonetheless, the cave system was impressive–it was like being in a glacier but in a cave, with sheets of ice all around. Some sections were massive enough to induce vertigo. The illumination was masterfully implemented, utilizing the cave’s features to great effect. Lauren’s sister Diana would have thoroughly enjoyed this experience.

Next they ascended by cable car to the summit of Krippenstein at 6,600 ft, where they hiked to numerous lookouts, including one that afforded 360-degree views of the surrounding Alpine mountains. In addition to tourists, the mountain lifts are used by other adventurers, including paragliders and skiers with dogs. The dogs seemed to have as much fun adjusting to the altitude as humans do.

Also at Krippenstein, they enjoyed a hot meal at a lodge. Despite being surrounded by snow, it was still pleasant enough to sit on the terrace outside with the sun on their backs.

Raul and Lauren wanted to be back in Hallstatt by 15:00 in order to take a ferry on the lake, but Raul realized that the next bus back would not pick them up until after the last ferry departed. Raul said to Lauren, “Maybe we can hitch a ride back to town.”

No sooner had he spoken than a young Austrian named Josef asked if they were travelling as a pair, because he had room for two in his car. They gratefully accepted his timely offer and enjoyed getting to know him while they descended and drove back to town.

It was interesting to hear his perceptions of Austria and the United States: Josef prefers a limited government, with an emphasis on personal liberty, and feels that he would fit in well in the Midwest, which he believes to be well-ordered since it is more conservative. He laments that few Austrians attend church anymore and expressed his admiration at seeing a full Lutheran church when he last visited the United States at Easter. He feels the best place on Earth is Yellowstone and that the Austrian countryside is too crowded. He prefers the expansive wilderness of the United States, which complements his desire to have a large car and drive everywhere, rather than take the train.

Not having had done enough walking, Raul and Lauren decided to do an “easy” two-hour hike to Waldbachstrub Waterfall. On the way to the trailhead, they were glad to run into Brenda and Ian, the couple from California they had met in Vienna. They swapped stories of their experiences in Hallstatt for a time and then continued toward the trail.

The first third of the trail was a flat, pleasant stroll among homesteads in outlying Hallstatt. There were lovely meadows of wild flowers and a rushing river nearby. Following the river, the next third was a peaceful, forested area. Finally, the flat terrain gave way to a steep climb to the waterfall–actually, multiple waterfalls.

While Raul boldly scampered closer to the waterfall, a Hungarian couple reached the viewing platform as well. Raul wanted to take a picture from the top, so he descended to retrieve the camera. Meanwhile, the young Hungarian man climbed up to the perch where Raul had been and asked his wife to take a picture of him from below. Realizing she couldn’t do this while holding her infant child, she turned to Raul, and before he knew what was going on, there was a baby in his arms. The child looked as dumbfounded as Raul did.

Back in town, they set out to look for a place to eat dinner. The first place they tried was Gasthof Simony, where they slept the previous night, because it has a gorgeous lake-front terrace. Unfortunately, no tables were available. They looked next door at Hotel Grüner Baum, but the menu didn’t strike their fancy. So they tried a pizza place, but they had no room at all. They thought they would check at Simony once more, but they were told the kitchen had actually run out of food, owing to the beautiful weather that day. Finally, they resigned to giving Grüner Baum a chance, which turned out to be a mistake.

Not only was the service slow by Austrian standards, but there can be no clearer illustration of the difference between table service in Austria versus America than the indifference they were shown tonight. They started with their usual appetizer, caprese. It was the first time they were unsatisfied with that dish, and after eating only a few bites, they set it aside. Not once did any of the wait staff remark, notice, or ask about the uneaten dish, which was unmistakably not prepared as described in the menu. On a happier note, the main courses were tasty, and every prior restaurant experience had been enjoyable.

They decided against the overnight hike mentioned in the itinerary below.

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Time Plan Sleep in
Day 04 Saturday 19 May mountain hut near Hallstatt
08:15 Arrange for bags to remain in Hallstatt, take first bus to Obertraun
08:40 Take first cable car up ▲▲Dachstein Mountain to Schönbergalm
09:20 Giant Ice Caves (Riesen-Eishöhle) tour
10:30 Continue up the mountain to Krippenstein
11:00 Descend and start the two-day hike

Day 3 – Lecker!

At breakfast this morning, Raul and Lauren socialized with a couple from California. Since they too were fans of Rick Steves’ travel guides, they shared the same itinerary for the next few days.

Raul and Lauren used the remaining time on their 24-hour transit pass to take the subway to the train station. Raul wasn’t sure if the pass was worth it, since nobody ever checked tickets.

The journey from Vienna to Hallstatt was on two trains and a bus. The first train segment was a lovely experience. Arriving early to the station, they were able to secure facing seats with a table in between–plenty of leg room! As marvelous as they found the comfort of travel by train to be, they found the natural beauty of the passing countryside even more wondrous.

In Hallstatt, Raul and Lauren looked for a hotel room for their second night, as Gasthof Simony had only one night available. They procured lodging within a private home overlooking the Market Square.

They spent the rest of the day exploring the quaint, lake-side hamlet on foot. Along the way, they paid a visit to the Catholic Church and its unique Bone Chapel. Since burial space was limited, it was customary to re-use plots after a dozen years. The remains of the previous inhabitants were dug up, and the skulls were laid to rest in the Bone Chapel. As a sign of love, various symbols were beautifully painted onto the skulls.

After a dinner of the typical Austrian Wiener Schnitzel and Apfelstrudel, they went for a hike above the town. It was particularly enjoyable with all the day-trippers having departed Hallstatt by that time. The hike afforded rich views of the town, the lake, and the surrounding mountains, many of which are still dotted with snow.

Prior to retiring for the night, they relaxed on the lake-front garden terrace of their hotel. While the sun went down, they indulged in a second dessert of Eis (ice-cream) accompanied by Holunder gespritzt (elderflower soda) for Raul and an Almdudler (Austrian herbed lemonade) for Lauren. Lecker!

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Hallstatt

Time Plan Sleep in
Day 03 Friday 18 May Hallstatt
07:40 Depart Wien Westbahnhof platform 9 on OIC 860
Total duration: 3h 45m, €47,50
09:59 Arrive Attnang-Puchheim, transfer to platform 21 on REX 3412/3446
10:11 Depart Attnang-Puchheim
11:25 Arrive Hallstatt train station
11:30 Take ferry “Stefanie” across the lake to Hallstatt
11:45 Drop bags at Gasthof Simony
Tel: +43 06134/8231
info@gasthof-simony.at
12:00 Get information on two-day hike from TI
12:30 Self-guided walk around the old town
13:00 Check in at Gasthof Simony, cash only, €70 for one night confirmed
13:30 ▲▲Catholic Church and Bone Chapel, €1,50, 10:00-18:00
14:30 Take a hike, perhaps to Waldbachstrub waterfall
17:30 Take a rowboat/canoe on the lake

Ferry info
TI

Sights in Hallstatt
  • ▲▲Catholic Church and Bone Chapel, €1,50, 10:00-18:00
  • Hallstatt Museum, €7,50, 10:00-18:00
  • Salt-Mine Tour, €24 combo-ticket mine & funicular round-trip, 09:00-16:00, arrive early or late to avoid crowds, ask for English tour

Near Hallstatt
  • ▲▲Dachstein Mountain Cable Car and Caves, €37 combo-ticket, 9:20-16:00, first and last cable car at 8:40, 17:00

Activities
  • ▲Lake Trip, €8+ for ferry, €12-13/hr for boat rental until 19:00
  • ▲Local Hikes

Day 2 – Schloss Schönbrunn

A breakfast of cheeses, meats, and bread with jam was thoroughly enjoyed by Raul and Lauren. This meal was reminiscent of breakfasts they were served throughout Romania. Having a full day ahead of them, they set out to tour the Ringstrasse, the boulevard that Emperor Franz Josef built to replace the city’s medieval wall.

They started the circuit near the Staatsoper, the Opera, on a tram. Originally they had planned to cycle around the Ring, but Lauren was not enthused about biking in 45 degree weather and high winds. Leaving the tram at Stadtpark, Vienna’s beautiful city park that honors many great Viennese musicians and composers with statues, they strolled through the park and took in the flowers and waterfowl.

At the edge of the park, they noticed the city bike station which offers free bicycles for people to use, so Raul convinced Lauren they should ride, after all. They continued around the Ring, stopping at many sights along the way, and finished back at the Staatsoper. Since it was getting late in the day, they skipped ahead in their itinerary and took the subway to Schönbrunn Palace.

This magnificent palace, which is said to be Versaille’s only rival, was the summer residence of the Hapsburgs. Despite forgetting to reserve their tickets in advance, they had no problem or wait getting in. They took a tour of forty rooms, all furnished in imperial splendor. After the tour, they spent a few hours strolling the expansive palace gardens.

Having worked up an appetite to match the magnificence of Schönbrunn, they returned to central Vienna and attempted to dine at a less than inviting restaurant near the Hofburg Palace but decided to take their business elsewhere. They decided on Gyros, a Greek/Turkish hole in the wall, with a genial and attentive proprietor.

The journal entries for Days 0 and 1 remain handwritten in their hotel room but will be posted at the earliest convenience.

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Time Plan Sleep in
Day 02 Thursday 17 May Wien
08:00 ▲▲Self-guided bike tour around the Ringstrasse
09:30 Wien City Walk
10:00 ▲▲Kaisergruft, the Remains of the Hapsburgs, €4
10:30 ▲▲▲St. Stephen’s Cathedral (Stephansdom), €3,50 main nave
11:30 ▲St. Peter’s Church (Peterkirche)
12:30 ▲▲New Palace Museums: Armor, Music, and Ancient Greek Statues, €18 combo with Kunsthistorisches Museum
14:30 ▲▲▲Schönbrunn Palace (Schloss Schönbrunn), €13,50 Grand Tour, closes at 17:00
16:30 ▲▲▲Kunsthistorisches Museum €12 or €18 combo, closes at 21:00
18:30 ▲▲▲Opera (Staatsoper), €3-4, La clemenza di Tito starts at 19:00
or…
Donauinsel (Danube Island) bike ride

Day 1 – Imperial Baubles

After a three hour lay-over in Amsterdam, Raul and Lauren arrived in Vienna at 13:30. Lauren deftly guided them to Schweizer Pension, with help from Raul’s hints along the way.

The weather was cooler than they had anticipated and included unexpected precipitation, so they unpacked the appropriate clothing. In order not to waste their short time in Vienna, they set out directly for the Hofburg Treasury, a collection of Imperial baubles. Lauren was impressed by a single emerald jewel, the size of a baseball, while Raul particularly enjoyed the 900-year-old red silk and gold thread mantle, worn by the Holy Roman Emperors at their coronations.

After visiting the Treasury, they went to the Dorotheum, an auction house–essentially a museum in which one could purchase the exhibits–but they quickly realized that they were beyond their means, with individual items costing anywhere from several thousand dollars to several hundred thousand.

Both were pretty hungry by this point, so they picked an Italian place to have dinner. For the antipasti, they ordered the caprese clasica, a plate of basil, tomato, and fresh mozzarella slices served with delicious garlic bread. Raul chose salmon, while Lauren had Argentinian beef fillets, and, for the first time, she ordered the beef medium-well, instead of well-done, thanks to the advice of a friend. Overall, it was a highlight in their life-long culinary experience.

With legs weary from their Monday night soccer games, as well as from travelling, they skipped the Opera and stumbled back to the pension for a much-needed rest.

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Oberes Belvedere
Time Plan Sleep in
Day 01 Wednesday 16 May Wien
08:05 Arrive Amsterdam
11:40 Depart Amsterdam on KLM flight 1845
Duration: 1h 50m
13:30 Arrive Wien
15:00 Check in at Schweizer Pension, cash only, €196 for two nights confirmed
Directions:
  1. Take S-Bahn S-7 yellow line from underground tracks outside the arrivals hall to Wien-Mitte.
  2. Go up the left escalator, turn left, walk until you see U4 on the right.
  3. Take U4 in the direction of Heiligenstadt for two stops, get out at Schottenring.
  4. Exit Salztorbrücke, go up escalator, cross over tramlines and turn left, take the first street on the right, Heinrichsgasse 2.

Tel: +43 01/533-8156
schweizer.pension@chello.at

15:30 ▲▲▲Hofburg Treasury (Weltliche und Geistliche Schatzkammer), €12, closes at 18:00
17:00 Vienna’s Auction House, the Dorotheum closes at 18:00
18:30 ▲▲▲Opera (Staatsoper), €3-4, La traviata starts at 19:00
or…
Donauinsel (Danube Island) bike ride

Transit info
Transit map
Austrian Train Schedules
German Train Schedules
Austria Rail Pass – $151

Sights in Wien
  • ▲▲Self-guided tram tour around the Ringstrasse, 10:00-18:00
  • Self-guided walk
  • ▲▲▲Opera (Staatsoper), €6,50 for tour, €3-4 for standing room ticket
  • ▲St. Peter’s Church (Peterkirche), Mon-Fri 07:00-19:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-19:00, organ concerts Mon-Fri at 15:00, Sat-Sun at 20:00
  • ▲▲▲St. Stephen’s Cathedral (Stephansdom), €3,50 main nave, Mon-Sat 09:00-11:30 & 13:30-16:30, Sun 13:30-16:30
  • ▲▲▲Hofburg Palace Imperial Apartments (Kaiserappartements), Treasury (Weltliche und Geistliche Schatzkammer), €10,50 for both?, Apartments 09:00-17:00, Treasury Wed-Mon 10:00-18:00
  • Lipizzaner Museum, €5 or €15 combo ticket, 09:00-18:00, training sessions 10:00-12:00
  • ▲Augustinian Church (Augustinerkirche)
  • ▲▲Albertina Museum, €9,50, 10:00-18:00
  • ▲▲Kaisergruft, the Remains of the Hapsburgs, €4, 10:00-18:00
  • ▲Imperial Furniture Collection (Kaiserliches Hofmobiliendepot) €7, Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00
  • ▲▲▲Kunsthistorisches Museum €12 or €18 combo, Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, Thu until 21:00
  • ▲▲New Palace Museums: Armor, Music, and Ancient Greek Statues, €18 combo with Kunsthistorisches Museum, Wed-Mon 10:00-18:00
  • Vienna’s Auction House, the Dorotheum Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat 09:00-17:00
  • ▲Naschmarkt, Mon-Fri 06:00-18:30, Sat 06:00-17:00 (get picnic food)
  • Liechtenstein Museum, €10, Fri-Tue 10:00-17:00
  • ▲▲Belvedere Palace, €9,50, 10:00-18:00
  • ▲▲▲Schönbrunn Palace (Schloss Schönbrunn), €13,50 or 19,50 for Classic Pass Plus, 8:30-17:00, least crowded from 12:00-14:00, call ahead for reservation (tel. 01/8111-3239)

Activities
  • ▲Stadtpark (City Park)
  • ▲Prater
  • Donauinsel (Danube Island) – bike ride
  • A Walk in the Vienna Woods (Wienerwald)
  • Concert or Opera
  • Café
Cycling
  • Citybike Wien, €1 registration (do online before trip), first hour free, second hour €1, third hour €2, €4/hour after that
  • Pedal Power, €5/hour, €17 four hours, 08:30-18:00
  • Crazy Chicken, €3/hour, €12/day, 08:30-19:00
  • Reichsbrücke, €5,40/hour, €27/day, 09:30 to dusk, near the bridge for Danube Island biking