Author Archives: Raul

Day 18 – No Hikes Today

After breakfast this morning, Raul and Lauren descended by cable car and crossed Lauterbrunnen Valley to the town of Wengen. Their first stop was the Coop grocery store where they purchased picnic fare: salami, Manchego cheese, baguette, butter, yogurt, croissant, and pastry. The plan was to take a lift to the top of a cliff overlooking the town and hike from there to Kleine Scheidegg, which is the train stop between Wengen and Jungfraujoch. Before taking the lift, they dropped by the Tourist Information and were dismayed once again to learn that the hike they planned to do is closed due to recent heavy snow in the region.

The travellers continued with their plan to reach Jungfraujoch, the highest train station in Europe at over 11,000 ft. It is difficult to imagine that the railway line was built more than 100 years ago.

The weather today was perfect, which was good for Raul and Lauren, but also good for everyone else. The entire excursion from ascent to descent was very crowded. Similar to their experiences in Austria and the rest of Switzerland, it is readily apparent that prosperity has reached beyond the West. Whereas in the past, most travellers would have been from the U.S., Europe, or Japan, now there are more travellers from China, Korea, and India. At Jungfraujoch today, most of the tourists were from India.

At the top, they took in the views, particularly of three large mountains with an interesting storyline: Mönch (the Monk) protects Jungfrau (the Maiden) from Eiger (the Ogre). The viewing platform also allowed them a look at Aletsch Glacier, the longest in Europe at nearly 11 miles.

At this altitude, one can have fun in the snow all year round (it was in the 20s at the top today). Raul and Lauren did not ski, but there is a zip-line that crosses the slopes, which they both enjoyed immensely. Lauren did not cry this time. She knew one landed directly in the snow at the end of the line, but until she experienced it, she did not realize that one actually plowed into the ground at full speed. Luckily, they were wearing lots of layers, and they walked away unbruised.

Another activity at Jungfraujoch was a literal walk through a gallery of ice sculptures. They passed through a series of tunnels made completely of ice–floor, ceiling, and walls.

They stopped at one final viewpoint, and as they were heading out, Raul noticed a group of Indian travellers posing for a photograph and offered to take a picture of the whole group. After taking the picture with several of the group’s cameras, a couple of them were so grateful that they wanted to pose with Raul and Lauren. Not knowing what else to do, they acceded. It all happened so fast. One of them even took a headshot of Lauren, commenting how beautiful she looked in the sunlight. Perhaps it was her snow-white complexion. He asked for their email address, and they were glad to give it.

Descending to Lauterbrunnen, they decided to attempt a hike on the Gimmelwald side of the valley. The trailhead is at the top of a funicular from Mürren which had stopped running for the day only shortly before they arrived. Foiled once again.

They resigned to returning to their pension in Gimmelwald from Mürren following the service road that connects the two towns. It is a rather short walk, but they were in no hurry, so it took them about an hour. They were amused on the way down by munching cattle and prancing lambs. Raul led them through someone’s backyard where they saw some guinea pigs and rabbits.

At the pension, they enjoyed dinner on the terrace with fantastic views across the valley to Jungfrau, Mönch, and Eiger.

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Time Plan Sleep in
Day 18 Saturday 2 June Gimmelwald
Jungfrau Rail Timetables PDF
07:30 Self-guided walk
▲▲▲Männlichen-Kleine Scheidegg hike & ▲▲▲Jungfraujoch
08:00 Depart Gimmelwald for Wengen on cable-car to Schilthornbahn station near Stechelberg
Total duration: 51m
Saved S₣16,20
08:12 Bus 14108 to Lauterbrunnen
08:37 Depart Lauterbrunnen on R 343 to Wengen
08:51 Arrive Wengen, purchase picnic food across from station
09:15 Take gondola from Wengen to Männlichen, every 15 minutes, walk 10 minutes from lift station to peak
09:40 Begin hike to Kleine Scheidegg
Duration: 1h
11:00 ▲▲▲Jungfraujoch, take train from Kleine Scheidegg, sit on right side, S₣87 round-trip
Duration: 1h
Saved S₣29
12:00 Return to Gimmelwald, S₣18 through Wengen
Saved S₣22,20
15:00 ▲Hike from Gimmelwald Up Sefinen Valley to Kilchbalm, good for rainy day, don’t do in snow, 2 hours

Day 17 – Ballenberg Folk Museum

Today, Raul and Lauren took a series of trains from Lausanne to Interlaken along the fourth scenic rail journey, the Golden Pass. For the segment starting in Montreux, they decided to ride in one of the classic Belle Epoque cars since they had enjoyed it so much the previous day on the Chocolate Train. It was a great deal because it was covered by their Swiss Pass, and, unlike other scenic rail journeys, a seat reservation was not compulsory.

At Interlaken, the travellers deposited their bags in a handy train station locker and left for the Swiss Open-Air Folk Museum. It is shameful that in the U.S., luggage lockers have all but disappeared from airports and train stations due to “security risks.”

The Museum is actually 50 acres of over 100 transplanted traditional Swiss buildings. Many of these can be likened to museums in and of themselves, displaying traditional clothing, tools, trades, and crafts: watch-making, farming, hat-making, textiles, etc. So this complex is actually a series of museums in one giant museum. The Museum has physically relocated centuries-old buildings to their property, grouping them according to their region of origin. Visitors can enter into almost all of these buildings, which consist of farm-houses, town-houses, granaries, barns, storage buildings, and those dedicated to handicrafts or other occupations. In addition to the structures and many gardens, the Museum is also home to every kind of native Swiss farm animal and even some endangered breeds. The animals are not corralled off in a separate space but rather are integrated among the farmsteads. This fact, along with the live fires burning in the hearths and the actual production of honey, bread, and other goods made it feel like a truly living community. Raul and Lauren had time to visit only about one quarter of the area, but they may return in the next few days if the weather isn’t conducive to high-mountain excursions.

Their destination for the next several nights was Gimmelwald, a tiny village perched high above Lauterbrunnen Valley on a cliff. To reach it, they took a cable car from the valley floor. After checking in, they socialized with a few Canadians at dinner (they were not as animated about hockey as the other Canadian Raul and Lauren know) and explored for a short time a daring path that leads to what is called a via ferrata–a suspension bridge, exceedingly narrow and precarious, requiring the use of a harness and carabiners to traverse safely. This is beyond the scope of Raul and Lauren’s sojourn.

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Time Plan Sleep in
Day 17 Friday 1 June Gimmelwald
09:01 Depart Lausanne platform 3 on S1 12123 to Montreux
Duration: 30m
Saved S₣5,20
09:31 Arrive Montreux, transfer to platform 5 on D 3118 to Zweisimmen
09:45 Depart Montreux – Golden Pass, reservation S₣15 front-row VIP seats, S₣5-10 other seats
Duration: 1h 47m
Saved S₣49
11:32 Arrive Zweisimmen, transfer to platform 7 on RE 3118 to Interlaken
11:38 Depart Zweisimmen – Golden Pass
Duration: 1h 11m
12:49 Arrive Interlaken Ost, stow bags, transfer to platform 4 on IR 2223 to Brienz
13:04 Depart Interlaken Ost for ▲▲Swiss Open-Air Folk Museum at Ballenberg
Duration: 45m
Saved S₣5,60
13:22 Arrive Brienz
13:37 Depart Brienz BE, Bahnhof on Bus 215 to Ballenberg West, Museum
13:49 ▲▲Swiss Open-Air Folk Museum at Ballenberg, closes at 17:00
Saved S₣20
17:30 Return to Interlaken and pick up bags from train station
18:05 Depart Interlaken Ost platform 2A on R 181 for Gimmelwald, trains 1/hr
Total duration: 55m
Saved S₣17
18:35 Depart Lauterbrunnen Bahnhof on Bus 14143 for Schilthornbahn cable-car station
18:55 Take Schilthornbahn cable-car to Gimmelwald
19:30 Check in to Olle and Maria’s B&B, S₣130/night (4 nights), cash only, free Wi-Fi, breakfast S₣20
Tel: +41 033-855-3575
oeggimann@bluewin.ch

Day 16 – Cranky Old Germans

After another typical but delicious Swiss breakfast, Lauren and Raul departed for the Montreux train station in order to board the Chocolate Train. On this special train, there were classic, “Belle Epoque” cars as well as a panoramic wagon. This train also had so-called “V.I.P.” seats which allow the passengers to have an unobstructed view in front of the train. Imagine their surprise when they realized that their seat reservation placed them in the very front V.I.P. row. It isn’t a Golden Ticket, but it was still pretty exciting.

They arrived in Montreux with ample time to board the Chocolate Train, but some cranky old Germans were there well in advance and seated in Raul and Lauren’s reserved seats. While they spent several uncomfortable minutes deliberating whether to just sit somewhere else or attempt to claim their rightful seats, the train filled up, and it became clear that sitting anywhere else would result in taking someone else’s reserved seat. Raul failed to establish communication with the usurpers. He showed them his ticket, but they seemed clueless, so in the end, it was necessary to pass the resolution of this dilemma on to the train attendant who efficiently evacuated Raul and Lauren’s seats. The Germans seemed to be a large party, surrounding Raul and Lauren in the rest of the V.I.P. seats. At various times, they had some animated discussions and some of them seemed upset. What were they upset about? Who can say for sure? But Lauren still felt a twinge of guilt over the affair.

The first stop of the excursion was La Maison du Gruyère, a cheese factory. All the train passengers were corraled through the tour as though they were cows, listening to an audioguide narrated by a “cow” named Cherry, because she was born in the cherry season, not because of her colors. Having heard the basics of large-scale Gruyère production, they were bussed to the town of Gruyères for lunch.

Gruyères is a very cute town, although there were too many tourists. Raul and Lauren briefly visited the Gruyères Château and returned to the main street for lunch. Dessert was a delicious bowl of raspberries with cream. The cream was of an unusual consistency and extremely tasty.

After lunch, they explored the back lanes of the town and ended up pretty much alone on a beautiful hiking trail. They walked along it for a bit, enjoying the sounds of the grazing sheep and cows from the nearby hills.

The next stop was the Maison Cailler, a chocolate factory. Once more, they were corraled and divided into smaller groups for an entertaining English tour of the history of chocolate. After the tour, Raul and Lauren were able to observe the production line of a nut-coated praline and more general information about chocolate and how it is produced. The culmination of the visit was, of course, the tasting room. Lauren did not believe it possible that too many samples could be provided, but Cailler accepted her challenge and won. Raul’s limit was not reached.

On the way back to Montreux, Raul attempted to barter their V.I.P. seats for seats in the 1920s coaches, but nobody accepted the exchange, for some strange reason. Perhaps word of the cranky Germans had spread. Nevertheless, after a stop where some people disembarked, Raul and Lauren found a couple of empty seats in the other coaches and enjoyed a most comfortable ride back to Montreux. The adventurers really had the best of both worlds on this train.

Finally back in Lausanne, the Taranusauruses worked up an appetite by strolling along Lake Geneva and in the Olympic Park. A dinner of rösti (topped with Gruyère cheese, of course) and, for Raul, melted cheese on toast, was followed by a game of giant chess. The game was played in front of the lake using two-foot tall pieces and a board on the sidewalk. Raul won.

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Time Plan Sleep in
Day 16 Thursday 31 May Lausanne
08:23 Depart Lausanne platform 6 on IR 1717
Duration: 19m
Saved S₣5,70
08:42 Arrive Montreux
09:00 Board Chocolate Train, S₣59, departs 09:12
Saved S₣40
10:15 La Maison du Gruyère
11:15 Bus to Gruyères village
11:25 Gruyères Château
13:50 Bus to Broc
14:10 Maison Cailler-Nestlé
15:55 Depart Broc
17:38 Arrive Montreux
18:00 Lakeside promenade in Montreux, return to Lausanne for the night

Day 14 – Gornergrat

Breakfast at the Youth Hostel surpassed the low expectations set by the previous day’s unappetizing dinner. Descending into town, Raul procured nourishment from the budget-friendly grocery store, Coop, while Lauren set forth to purchase their train tickets to Gornergrat.

From the 10,270 ft viewpoint, they enjoyed a sweeping Alpine panorama, including the Matterhorn, a half-dozen glaciers, and many more peaks as high or higher than they were. It was immediately apparent that the air was much thinner at this altitude, so they took things slowly. Also immediately apparent as they stepped off the train were two giant dogs. They were St. Bernards complete with brandy barrels around their necks. Raul did not ask if he could have a taste. Evidently Lauren had no idea what the barrels were for and did not believe Raul’s precise explanation.

Before oxygen deprivation could take its toll, they boarded a train bound for Zermatt and got off at the penultimate stop. From here, Raul and Lauren hiked a couple hours downhill into town.

Back at the hostel, a break was in order, after which they explored three of Zermatt’s grocery stores. They still haven’t found a good selection of bar soap. It seems likely that the Swiss prefer liquid soap. Similar to Pontresina, a number of Zermatt’s restaurants are closed until June, including two recommended by their guidebook. They walked along the main drag and dined on fondue at a quieter establishment just off the road.

In contrast to the planned itinerary below, Raul and Lauren are leaving for Lausanne in the morning.

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Time Plan Sleep in
Day 14 Tuesday 29 May Lausanne
Hiking routes
Hiking routes PDF map
08:30 Underground funicular from Zermatt to Sunnegga, S₣12 round-trip, every 10-20 minutes
Duration: 8m
Saved S₣12
08:38 Hike to Blauherd and back, eat along the way if possible
12:30 Descend from Sunnegga to Zermatt
13:36 Train to Gornergrat, S₣20, sit on the right side, every hour
Duration: 33m
Saved S₣20
14:09 Arrive Gornergrat
15:31 Depart Gornergrat to Rotenboden, ~S₣4,50
Duration: 5m
Saved ~S₣4,50
15:36 Hike to Riffelberg
16:34 Depart Riffleberg to Zermatt, S₣14,50
Duration: 29m
Saved S₣14,50
17:03 Arrive Zermatt
18:13 Depart Zermatt platform 3 on R 264 to Visp
Total duration: 3h 02m
Saved S₣37,50
19:23 Arrive Visp, transfer to platform 4/5 on IR 1438
19:36 Depart Visp
21:15 Arrive Lausanne
21:20 Check in at Lausanne Guesthouse, S₣106/night double, or S₣76,80/night dorm (3 nights), no breakfast, free Wi-Fi
Tel: +41 021-601-8000
info@lausanne-guesthouse.ch

Day 13 – Glacial Express

Don Quixote and Sancho sallied forth this morning to St. Moritz from Samedan, intent upon finding adventure and honor on the Glacier Express bound for Zermatt. The trip would take a long eight hours and would deposit them in the town nearest the Matterhorn, that famous craggy peak.

But let’s not get ahead of ourselves. The adventurers surely could not depart on an empty stomach. They enjoyed a delicious breakfast of cereals, yogurt, cold cuts, cheese, jams, and breads–typical of what they normally partake of and of excellent quality. This was yet another way in which Hotel Palazzo Mysanus exceeded all others so far.

Raul and Lauren’s railway journey was long but immensely more comfortable than by plane. The travellers opted to upgrade from second to first class due to the length of the trip. Also for the first time, they had a proper meal on a train.

The Glacier Express slowly (sometimes, at 20 m.p.h.) carried its passengers over countless bridges and viaducts, through dozens of tunnels, often perched on the edge of gorges and canyons, and over high mountain passes using a rack and pinion engine and track to overcome 12.5% grades. The terrain varied from the green, Alpine meadows of the Engadine valleys to the barren tundra above the tree line to boulder-lined landscapes reminiscent of the Rocky Mountains of North America. The views were fantastic and endless. Lauren took a nap after lunch, not because she wanted to but because the Dramamine and the gentle rocking of the train made her drowsy.

Once in Zermatt, they checked into their room at the Youth Hostel and dined on the included dinner, which was barely mediocre. They do not plan to partake tomorrow.

A stroll through the traffic-free lanes of Zermatt was all they had time for before calling it a night.

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Time Plan Sleep in
Day 13 Monday 28 May Zermatt
07:56 Depart Pontresina on R 4624 to St. Moritz
Duration: 12m
Saved S₣2,50
08:08 Arrive St. Moritz
09:15 Depart St. Moritz on D 905, S₣33 seat reservation – Glacier Express, upgrade to 1st class, S₣96
Duration: 7h 45m
Saved S₣136
12:30 Three-course lunch on Glacier Express, S₣43, 11:00-13:30
17:00 Arrive Zermatt
17:20 Check in at Zermatt Youth Hostel, S₣114,20/night (1-2 nights), includes breakfast & dinner
Tel: +41 027-967-2320
zermatt@youthhostel.ch
17:30 ▲Wander the Town or ▲▲Matterhorn Museum, closes at 18:00
Sights

Day 12 – Geschlossen bis Juni

Hotel San Carlo’s breakfast room seemed too small for the size of the hotel, and Lauren and Raul indeed had to wait for a table. After a hurried breakfast, Lauren had the uncomfortable encounter of overhearing the proprietor telling an Asian woman that she and her party had stayed too long at breakfast–over an hour–and that she should not take so much time, as other guests needed to eat as well. Lauren was very surprised at this sentiment, because Europeans simply don’t hurry through meals.

Raul and Lauren rushed to the bus stop adjacent to the train station above the town and boarded the Bernina Express bus bound for Tirano, Italy. The bus ride was bumpy and jerky, in stark contrast to their train journeys. The rocking put Lauren to sleep as it usually does. They waited an hour and a half in Tirano for their official Bernina Express train connection and used that time to explore the town’s vast Sunday market.

The Bernina Express train journey was breathtaking, with numerous switchbacks that allow the train to climb to 7,380 ft–higher than they were on Mount Pilatus. Amazingly, this ascent is achieved without the use of a cogwheel.

They arrived in Pontresina ready to check in to their chosen hotel. After a steep climb to the town’s center, they found that not only was their hotel closed until June, but so were the other five they checked. Evidently there is a lull between the winter and summer seasons when many establishments shutter their doors. With little choice left, Raul and Lauren found an open hotel in the nearby town of Samedan, the Hotel Palazzo Mysanus. Being one of the more expensive options, it wasn’t their first choice, but it was their only choice. In this case, the expense was well worth it, as this hotel was by far the nicest one they have stayed at thus far.

A tour of the town led them to a dramatic viewpoint by the Church of St. Peter. From here, they could survey the valley and peaks surrounding Samedan. Even though Samedan is in a valley, the altitude is still over 6,000 ft.

They caught the next train to the nearby resort town of St. Moritz for dinner. Just as Pontresina and Samedan had been, St. Moritz was virtually deserted, and most businesses were closed until later in June. They dined at probably the only open restaurant, Restaurant Hauser, and returned to Samedan for the night. Needless to say, they did not spot any celebrities.

Since most places were closed, they decided to travel on to Zermatt the next morning, rather than spend Monday in the Upper Engadine region. So, their itinerary has been slightly derailed.

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Time Plan Sleep in
Day 12 Sunday 27 May Pontresina
10:00 Depart Lugano on Bus 5950, S₣12 seat reservation – Bernina Express
Total duration: 6h 26m
Saved S₣52
13:00 Arrive Tirano
14:22 Depart Tirano on D 960, S₣12 seat reservation – Bernina Express
16:26 Arrive Pontresina, bus 2 from Pontresina, Post leaves for Segantini Museum at 16:48
16:30 Check in at Hotel Engadinerhof, S₣120/night (2 nights)
Tel: +41 081-839-3100
info@engadinerhof.com
17:30 Visit St. Moritz, 10m train, 1/hr

Day 11 – Dark Chocolate Gelato…Mmmm

Raul and Lauren took an early train from Luzern, in central Switzerland, to reach Lugano, a mid-sized town three hours away in the southern, Italian part of the country. Their route followed one of the four famous scenic rail journeys in Switzerland, that of the William Tell Express, although they took a standard train and not the official one. A lot changed in this short trip: they crossed into the canton of Ticino; the architecture is of stone, not wood; the climate is warmer; and the people are Italian-speaking. Indeed, when they departed Luzern, announcements were given in German, and upon arriving, they were made in Italian. There is a very Mediterranean feel about the city, and it’s easy to believe that Lake Lugano is really the Mediterranean Sea (except here, one can see the other side of the lake!).

Although Raul and Lauren arrived by 11:00 a.m., their hotel room was already prepared, so they were able to check in and leave their bags. A tour of the cute town took only a short time, and they walked along the lakefront toward San Salvatore. On the way, Lauren had dark chocolate gelato, and for once, it really was dark. It was the best she’s ever had.

Finally, they arrived at the funicular that would take them up San Salvatore. This mountain, standing at 2990 ft, is small compared to its northern counterparts, but it affords good panoramic views of the city and surrounding countryside. Unfortunately, the atmosphere was exceptionally hazy. In clearer weather, it would have been possible to see Milano, Italy.

After descending the mountain, they walked on to a ferry just as it was departing for Italy. Their destination was the nearby fishing village of Gandria. Luckily, the ferry stopped there before continuing on its course.

Perched on a terrace high above the lake, the Taranusauruses enjoyed a quick appetizer of tagliatelle noodles in a creamy Gorgonzola sauce. They returned afterwards to Lugano.

In Lugano, Raul and Lauren spent the evening strolling the lakeside promenade and ate dinner on the Piazza della Riforma. When abroad, Lauren likes to try new dishes, so she chose fresh gnocchi with zaffron cream sauce. It was too bad she didn’t like it. The service was also very slow, a fact that made the feeling of being in Italy even stronger. Raul did not mind the slow service as much, since they were in Lugano to relax.

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Time Plan Sleep in
Day 11 Saturday 26 May Lugano
08:06 Depart Luzern platform 11B on S3 21331
Total duration: 2h 39m
Saved S₣28
08:38 Arrive Arth-Goldau, transfer to platform 4 on ICN 661
08:47 Depart Arth-Goldau
10:46 Arrive Lugano, drop off bags at Albergo Montarina
Tel: +41 091-966-7272
info@montarina.ch
11:00 Self-guided walk
13:00 San Salvatore, ascend via funicular, S₣12, 09:00-19:30
Saved S₣12
16:13 Take ferry from Paradiso to Gandria
Duration: 19m
Saved S₣24,20
18:15 Return to Paradiso via ferry
Duration: 25m
19:15 Check in at Albergo Montarina, S₣60 two bunk beds including sheets, S₣12 breakfast buffet, free wifi

Day 10 – Planes, Trains, and Automobiles

The first destination this morning was Luzern’s Jesuit Church. The Rococo interior is bright and airy, with clear glass windows, white walls, and pink stucco marble. It stands in contrast to churches of darker interiors with stained glass.

Since their hostel does not provide breakfast, Raul and Lauren headed to Bäckerei Hug to “recharge,” as Lauren would say. They had rösti and raclette. With bellies full, Lauren navigated the bus system, and they arrived at the famous Lion Monument of Luzern. Despite their guidebook’s description of the monument being huge, Lauren was still astounded by its immensity. The sculpture of the wounded lion commemorates the Swiss guards who died defending the French king during the Revolution. Surprisingly, Lauren did not cry at the sight of the tears and pain evident on the noble beast’s muzzle. It is difficult for her to be so moved when there are hordes of tourists about.

With their emotional needs fulfilled, Raul and Lauren proceeded to satiate their intellectual thirst over the next several hours with a visit to the Swiss Transport Museum. They explored all modes of transport in Switzerland, including trains, trams, automobiles, bicycles, sailing vessels, aircraft, and high mountain lifts. One of the features that sets this museum apart from its drier counterparts is the multitude of interactive exhibits.

For example, in the building dedicated to automotive transport, there is a wall where dozens of vehicles from all eras are stacked on individual shelves. These are actual automobiles, not models, mind you. A robotic lifter is commanded by museum visitors to retrieve any one of the automobiles and bring it to the theater/viewing platform. A short presentation on the history of that particular model is then given. This was the highlight for Raul in terms of interactive exhibits. Other highlights include: a 1/20 scale model of a dual carriage alpine lift that can be operated on command, a full size replica of one of the earliest aircraft where one lies prone to fly it–complete with controls and flight simulator, nautical knot tying, vision tests, and countless others.

In the courtyard between the buildings, there was a test track where one could test drive a Chevy Volt, ride electric bicycles, or try out Segways. Lauren dislikes Segways, but she tried one anyway–she still dislikes them. Both had fun on electric bicycles. Raul gave the brakes a good test when he almost ran over some pedestrians.

It was a long day with much to see and do at the museum but well worth the time and entrance fee.

They finished the evening with a visit to Luzern’s public library and dinner at Restaurant Rathaus Bräuerei. Lauren ate Swiss macaroni and cheese while Raul had ravioli in tomato-butter sauce.

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Time Plan Sleep in
Day 10 Friday 25 May Luzern
08:30 Self-guided walk
11:30 ▲Lion Monument (Löwendenkmal), free
12:00 ▲▲Swiss Transport Museum (Verkehrshaus), takes a half day, S₣15, 10:00-18:00, walk or take a boat from train station
Saved S₣15
16:00 ▲▲Rosengart Collection (Sammlung Rosengart Luzern), free, 10:00-18:00
Saved S₣18
18:00 Bicycle ride along lakeside paths

Day 9 – Seilpark

Raul and Lauren awoke to yet another cloudy day. They deliberated over whether to do their mountain excursion today or tomorrow and ended up choosing to stick to their planned itinerary. They purchased their gondola tickets for Mount Pilatus and got in line to board. Ahead of them was an Asian couple, and Raul and Lauren decided to let them ride alone in the gondola, even though there was room for four per cabin. Thinking they would get to ride in private, they boarded the next one but quickly realized that the two older gentlemen behind them were more focused on efficiency than courtesy.

The first order of business in this excursion was a few hours of Alpine recreation. Disembarking at Fräkmüntegg, the tree-line of Mount Pilatus, they were the first in line for the mile-long summer toboggan run. Raul breezed through the run quickly, while Lauren rode the brake most of the way down.

After this quick diversion, they proceeded to the Seilpark (Rope Park). Here, there are ten courses of varying difficulty, wherein one must negotiate a series of challenges utilizing ropes and platforms high among the trees. They donned their harnesses, helmets, and gloves and listened to the comprehensive instructions. Then they completed the obligatory, introductory course. Lauren was ready to quit, but she found the willpower to go through a second, slightly more challenging segment. It wasn’t long until she was in tears, and this was the last one she did. Raul was eager to continue and chose a blue course, marked Difficult, while Lauren watched and photographed from below. Here, the height was ramped up considerably and lacking were the handholds present in the previous courses. There were also sections with netting that were annoying because one has to stop to hook and rehook the safety carabiners with every step. Lucky for Raul, his memory has already erased the terror he too felt at the dizzying heights in the trees.

After a few more courses that culminated with a leap of faith from the top of a tower, Raul and Lauren ascended to the summit of Mount Pilatus via cable car. They took in the views and ate the sandwich they had packed. Finally, they descended the other side of the mountain on the world’s steepest cogwheel train with grades up to 48%. That’s more than halfway to a right angle!

At the base of the mountain, they boarded a ferry that would take them back to Luzern. The evening was spent eating on the riverfront again–this time, traditional Swiss fondue.

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Time Plan Sleep in
Day 09 Thursday 24 May Luzern
Pilatus timetables
Lake Luzern timetables

Luzern area day trip
9:00 City bus #1 to Kriens, walk 10m to the gondola station following Pilatus signs
9:30 Gondola to Fräkmüntegg, S₣34
Duration: 30m
Saved S₣34
10:00 Luge ride (Fräkigaudi), S₣8, 10:00-12:00, 13:15-17:00
10:30 Pilatus Rope Park (Seilpark), S₣27, 10:00-17:00
13:30 Cable car to observation platform at Pilatus Kulm
13:45 Hikes at Pilatus summit
15:00 Cogwheel train to Alpnachstad
Duration: 40m
16:35 Boat to Luzern, free
Duration: 1h 5m
Saved S₣19
17:40 Bicycle ride along lakeside paths

Day 8 – Should Have Listened to Karl Pilkington

Raul and Lauren originally had hopes for a five-hour hike today on Ebenalp. Last night, however, they found out that several trails were closed due to an avalanche last week. They had decided to have a go on some trails which were open, but as luck would have it, a thick cloud enveloped the mountaintop all morning, making it impossible to hike a great distance. And since clouds are full of moisture, it would have been an unpleasantly wet trek in any case.

After dining on a breakfast of bread, jams, and the regional Appenzeller cheese, they decided then to simply walk back up to the mountain summit to take the cable car down to the train station and thence proceed on to their next destination, Luzern.

Signage on the trails gives approximate lengths of hikes in minutes, but with the weight of their backpacks, it took Lauren and Raul double the posted time to navigate the trail.

Sadly, they had put off taking many pictures the previous night thinking they would take them in better light the next day. The joke was on them because the cloud cover resulted in a visibility of about ten yards this morning. On the bright side, this is a reason to return here on a future trip.

Once in Luzern, they set about securing lodging for the next three nights. Despite travelling before the commencement of the high season, they are finding it surprisingly difficult to travel without reservations. Hotels they planned to patronize have often been full.

With their bags stowed at their hostel, they enjoyed a relaxing dinner on the banks of Luzern’s Reuss River and a stroll through the medieval Old Town.

On the way back to the hostel, they explored Luzern’s Rail City, an underground shopping mall at the train station, and purchased some snacks they have come to enjoy. Sadly, these will not be available to buy in the U.S., so that sucks. This is why one should not try foods which are not available where one lives. Best case, you hate it; worst case, you love it and can’t have it at home.

Also on the way home, they caught the last ten minutes of a high school soccer match. It was a close game, so the crowd was very excited and the play spirited.

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Confœderatio Helvetica
Coat of Arms

Ebenalp view

Time Plan Sleep in
Day 08 Wednesday 23 May – ▲▲▲Happy Anniversary! Luzern
08:00 Hike Route 10, 5 hours
15:00 Take cable car down to Wasserauen after picking up bags from Aescher
Saved S₣13,50
15:19 Depart Wasserauen on R 1152
Total duration: 3h 1m, trains approximately every hour
Saved S₣26
16:06 Arrive Herisau, transfer to IR 2426
16:10 Depart Herisau
18:20 Arrive Luzern
18:35 Check in at Backpackers Luzern, S₣82 double room, no breakfast (3 nights)
Tel: +41 360-0420
info@backpackerslucerne.ch
19:30 Dinner at Nix in der Laterne, make reservation
Tel: +41 240-2543
info@nixinderlaterne.ch
Transit info
Lake Luzern info

Sights

Sleeping

Eating
  • Opus, upscale, S₣25-38
  • Nix in der Laterne, romantic, S₣50 2-course dinner, S₣35 plates, S₣20 lunch
  • Restaurant Taube, traditional Swiss, Rösti S₣26, S₣18 2-course lunch
  • Restaurant Schiff, traditional Swiss, S₣25-35
  • Bakeries: Hug Bakery/Café and Heini Bakery/Café
  • Self-Service Cafeteria: Manora, S₣6-15, closed Sun