Author Archives: Lauren

Day 15 – Hochdeutsch

Raul and Lauren rushed through breakfast in order to take an early train to Montreux. This lake-side town is in the western, French-speaking canton of Vaud. The travellers left their bags at the pricey nine Franc locker and took the next bus to the wonderfully preserved Château de Chillon.

Some readers will remember that Raul and Lauren visited several châteaus in their 2007 trip to France. The Swiss château differs in that construction of the buildings began much earlier, before the 11th or 12th centuries. It also consists of numerous distinct buildings constructed over several centuries. Furthermore, this castle functioned primarily as an administrative and defensive fortification, not as a permanent residence. The château is built on a rocky island just a few meters off the coast of Lake Geneva, so it occupies an excellent defensive position. Raul and Lauren’s tour of the castle finished with a walk along the sentry wall and a climb to the top of the castle’s keep.

They strolled back to Montreux along a lovely lake-side path, posed with a statue of Freddie Mercury, and caught a train to their final destination for the day, Lausanne.

After checking in at Hotel du Marché, they visited the Collection del’Art Brut, a museum featuring the works of untrained artists. Many of these artists were locked up, either because society viewed them as insane or because they were criminals. Others were seen as “normal,” but they led mundane lives as soldiers, policemen, and laborers before tapping into their creative spirit. The works were as varied as they were creative, and one never knew what to expect next.

Raul and Lauren then enjoyed a light dinner at Café Romand. Lauren had a warm goat cheese salad, the likes of which they had not tasted since their last trip to France.

After dinner, they explored the old town. They noted the differences in architecture as well as the diverse ethnic make-up of the population. Also, this was the first Swiss city where litter and refuse were commonly seen on the streets and sidewalks.

Now that Raul and Lauren are in the French-speaking part of the country, they are somewhat more efficient at communicating with the locals due to their combined knowledge of French. The travellers have found that throughout Switzerland and Austria, when they speak to someone using the local greeting, the local always replies in German, Italian, or French. This is in stark contrast to their experience in Spain and especially France, where a “Bonjour!”, more often than not, resulted in a reply in English. In Zermatt last night, Raul greeted the restaurant owner in German. She replied with a flurry of incomprehensible words to which Raul replied, “Ich verstehe nicht,” (“I don’t understand”). Her first assumption was that he spoke Hochdeutsch, the “High” German spoken in Germany and asked, “Verstehen sie Hochdeutsch?” It seems laughable to Raul and Lauren that someone would think them capable or fluent in German, high or otherwise.

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Confœderatio Helvetica
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Time Plan Sleep in
Day 15 Wednesday 30 May Lausanne
08:01 Depart Lausanne platform 3 on S1 12119, direction: Villeneuve, 1/hr
Duration: 34m
08:35 Arrive Veytaux-Chillon, walk 10 minutes to ▲▲▲Château de Chillon
09:00 ▲▲▲Château de Chillon, closes at 19:00
Saved S₣12
13:00 Return to Lausanne
13:00 City History Museum (Musée Historique de Lausanne), closes at 17:00
Saved S₣8
15:00 ▲▲Collection de l’Art Brut, closes at 18:00
Saved S₣10
17:30 Go to Ouchy and the waterfront
Sights

Day 1 – Imperial Baubles

After a three hour lay-over in Amsterdam, Raul and Lauren arrived in Vienna at 13:30. Lauren deftly guided them to Schweizer Pension, with help from Raul’s hints along the way.

The weather was cooler than they had anticipated and included unexpected precipitation, so they unpacked the appropriate clothing. In order not to waste their short time in Vienna, they set out directly for the Hofburg Treasury, a collection of Imperial baubles. Lauren was impressed by a single emerald jewel, the size of a baseball, while Raul particularly enjoyed the 900-year-old red silk and gold thread mantle, worn by the Holy Roman Emperors at their coronations.

After visiting the Treasury, they went to the Dorotheum, an auction house–essentially a museum in which one could purchase the exhibits–but they quickly realized that they were beyond their means, with individual items costing anywhere from several thousand dollars to several hundred thousand.

Both were pretty hungry by this point, so they picked an Italian place to have dinner. For the antipasti, they ordered the caprese clasica, a plate of basil, tomato, and fresh mozzarella slices served with delicious garlic bread. Raul chose salmon, while Lauren had Argentinian beef fillets, and, for the first time, she ordered the beef medium-well, instead of well-done, thanks to the advice of a friend. Overall, it was a highlight in their life-long culinary experience.

With legs weary from their Monday night soccer games, as well as from travelling, they skipped the Opera and stumbled back to the pension for a much-needed rest.

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Republik Österreich
Coat of Arms

Oberes Belvedere
Time Plan Sleep in
Day 01 Wednesday 16 May Wien
08:05 Arrive Amsterdam
11:40 Depart Amsterdam on KLM flight 1845
Duration: 1h 50m
13:30 Arrive Wien
15:00 Check in at Schweizer Pension, cash only, €196 for two nights confirmed
Directions:
  1. Take S-Bahn S-7 yellow line from underground tracks outside the arrivals hall to Wien-Mitte.
  2. Go up the left escalator, turn left, walk until you see U4 on the right.
  3. Take U4 in the direction of Heiligenstadt for two stops, get out at Schottenring.
  4. Exit Salztorbrücke, go up escalator, cross over tramlines and turn left, take the first street on the right, Heinrichsgasse 2.

Tel: +43 01/533-8156
schweizer.pension@chello.at

15:30 ▲▲▲Hofburg Treasury (Weltliche und Geistliche Schatzkammer), €12, closes at 18:00
17:00 Vienna’s Auction House, the Dorotheum closes at 18:00
18:30 ▲▲▲Opera (Staatsoper), €3-4, La traviata starts at 19:00
or…
Donauinsel (Danube Island) bike ride

Transit info
Transit map
Austrian Train Schedules
German Train Schedules
Austria Rail Pass – $151

Sights in Wien
  • ▲▲Self-guided tram tour around the Ringstrasse, 10:00-18:00
  • Self-guided walk
  • ▲▲▲Opera (Staatsoper), €6,50 for tour, €3-4 for standing room ticket
  • ▲St. Peter’s Church (Peterkirche), Mon-Fri 07:00-19:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-19:00, organ concerts Mon-Fri at 15:00, Sat-Sun at 20:00
  • ▲▲▲St. Stephen’s Cathedral (Stephansdom), €3,50 main nave, Mon-Sat 09:00-11:30 & 13:30-16:30, Sun 13:30-16:30
  • ▲▲▲Hofburg Palace Imperial Apartments (Kaiserappartements), Treasury (Weltliche und Geistliche Schatzkammer), €10,50 for both?, Apartments 09:00-17:00, Treasury Wed-Mon 10:00-18:00
  • Lipizzaner Museum, €5 or €15 combo ticket, 09:00-18:00, training sessions 10:00-12:00
  • ▲Augustinian Church (Augustinerkirche)
  • ▲▲Albertina Museum, €9,50, 10:00-18:00
  • ▲▲Kaisergruft, the Remains of the Hapsburgs, €4, 10:00-18:00
  • ▲Imperial Furniture Collection (Kaiserliches Hofmobiliendepot) €7, Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00
  • ▲▲▲Kunsthistorisches Museum €12 or €18 combo, Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, Thu until 21:00
  • ▲▲New Palace Museums: Armor, Music, and Ancient Greek Statues, €18 combo with Kunsthistorisches Museum, Wed-Mon 10:00-18:00
  • Vienna’s Auction House, the Dorotheum Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat 09:00-17:00
  • ▲Naschmarkt, Mon-Fri 06:00-18:30, Sat 06:00-17:00 (get picnic food)
  • Liechtenstein Museum, €10, Fri-Tue 10:00-17:00
  • ▲▲Belvedere Palace, €9,50, 10:00-18:00
  • ▲▲▲Schönbrunn Palace (Schloss Schönbrunn), €13,50 or 19,50 for Classic Pass Plus, 8:30-17:00, least crowded from 12:00-14:00, call ahead for reservation (tel. 01/8111-3239)

Activities
  • ▲Stadtpark (City Park)
  • ▲Prater
  • Donauinsel (Danube Island) – bike ride
  • A Walk in the Vienna Woods (Wienerwald)
  • Concert or Opera
  • Café
Cycling
  • Citybike Wien, €1 registration (do online before trip), first hour free, second hour €1, third hour €2, €4/hour after that
  • Pedal Power, €5/hour, €17 four hours, 08:30-18:00
  • Crazy Chicken, €3/hour, €12/day, 08:30-19:00
  • Reichsbrücke, €5,40/hour, €27/day, 09:30 to dusk, near the bridge for Danube Island biking