Breakfast at the Youth Hostel surpassed the low expectations set by the previous day’s unappetizing dinner. Descending into town, Raul procured nourishment from the budget-friendly grocery store, Coop, while Lauren set forth to purchase their train tickets to Gornergrat.

From the 10,270 ft viewpoint, they enjoyed a sweeping Alpine panorama, including the Matterhorn, a half-dozen glaciers, and many more peaks as high or higher than they were. It was immediately apparent that the air was much thinner at this altitude, so they took things slowly. Also immediately apparent as they stepped off the train were two giant dogs. They were St. Bernards complete with brandy barrels around their necks. Raul did not ask if he could have a taste. Evidently Lauren had no idea what the barrels were for and did not believe Raul’s precise explanation.

Before oxygen deprivation could take its toll, they boarded a train bound for Zermatt and got off at the penultimate stop. From here, Raul and Lauren hiked a couple hours downhill into town.

Back at the hostel, a break was in order, after which they explored three of Zermatt’s grocery stores. They still haven’t found a good selection of bar soap. It seems likely that the Swiss prefer liquid soap. Similar to Pontresina, a number of Zermatt’s restaurants are closed until June, including two recommended by their guidebook. They walked along the main drag and dined on fondue at a quieter establishment just off the road.

In contrast to the planned itinerary below, Raul and Lauren are leaving for Lausanne in the morning.

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