Monthly Archives: May 2012

Day 16 – Cranky Old Germans

After another typical but delicious Swiss breakfast, Lauren and Raul departed for the Montreux train station in order to board the Chocolate Train. On this special train, there were classic, “Belle Epoque” cars as well as a panoramic wagon. This train also had so-called “V.I.P.” seats which allow the passengers to have an unobstructed view in front of the train. Imagine their surprise when they realized that their seat reservation placed them in the very front V.I.P. row. It isn’t a Golden Ticket, but it was still pretty exciting.

They arrived in Montreux with ample time to board the Chocolate Train, but some cranky old Germans were there well in advance and seated in Raul and Lauren’s reserved seats. While they spent several uncomfortable minutes deliberating whether to just sit somewhere else or attempt to claim their rightful seats, the train filled up, and it became clear that sitting anywhere else would result in taking someone else’s reserved seat. Raul failed to establish communication with the usurpers. He showed them his ticket, but they seemed clueless, so in the end, it was necessary to pass the resolution of this dilemma on to the train attendant who efficiently evacuated Raul and Lauren’s seats. The Germans seemed to be a large party, surrounding Raul and Lauren in the rest of the V.I.P. seats. At various times, they had some animated discussions and some of them seemed upset. What were they upset about? Who can say for sure? But Lauren still felt a twinge of guilt over the affair.

The first stop of the excursion was La Maison du Gruyère, a cheese factory. All the train passengers were corraled through the tour as though they were cows, listening to an audioguide narrated by a “cow” named Cherry, because she was born in the cherry season, not because of her colors. Having heard the basics of large-scale Gruyère production, they were bussed to the town of Gruyères for lunch.

Gruyères is a very cute town, although there were too many tourists. Raul and Lauren briefly visited the Gruyères Château and returned to the main street for lunch. Dessert was a delicious bowl of raspberries with cream. The cream was of an unusual consistency and extremely tasty.

After lunch, they explored the back lanes of the town and ended up pretty much alone on a beautiful hiking trail. They walked along it for a bit, enjoying the sounds of the grazing sheep and cows from the nearby hills.

The next stop was the Maison Cailler, a chocolate factory. Once more, they were corraled and divided into smaller groups for an entertaining English tour of the history of chocolate. After the tour, Raul and Lauren were able to observe the production line of a nut-coated praline and more general information about chocolate and how it is produced. The culmination of the visit was, of course, the tasting room. Lauren did not believe it possible that too many samples could be provided, but Cailler accepted her challenge and won. Raul’s limit was not reached.

On the way back to Montreux, Raul attempted to barter their V.I.P. seats for seats in the 1920s coaches, but nobody accepted the exchange, for some strange reason. Perhaps word of the cranky Germans had spread. Nevertheless, after a stop where some people disembarked, Raul and Lauren found a couple of empty seats in the other coaches and enjoyed a most comfortable ride back to Montreux. The adventurers really had the best of both worlds on this train.

Finally back in Lausanne, the Taranusauruses worked up an appetite by strolling along Lake Geneva and in the Olympic Park. A dinner of rösti (topped with Gruyère cheese, of course) and, for Raul, melted cheese on toast, was followed by a game of giant chess. The game was played in front of the lake using two-foot tall pieces and a board on the sidewalk. Raul won.

Flag
Confœderatio Helvetica
Coat of Arms

Time Plan Sleep in
Day 16 Thursday 31 May Lausanne
08:23 Depart Lausanne platform 6 on IR 1717
Duration: 19m
Saved S₣5,70
08:42 Arrive Montreux
09:00 Board Chocolate Train, S₣59, departs 09:12
Saved S₣40
10:15 La Maison du Gruyère
11:15 Bus to Gruyères village
11:25 Gruyères Château
13:50 Bus to Broc
14:10 Maison Cailler-Nestlé
15:55 Depart Broc
17:38 Arrive Montreux
18:00 Lakeside promenade in Montreux, return to Lausanne for the night

Day 15 – Hochdeutsch

Raul and Lauren rushed through breakfast in order to take an early train to Montreux. This lake-side town is in the western, French-speaking canton of Vaud. The travellers left their bags at the pricey nine Franc locker and took the next bus to the wonderfully preserved Château de Chillon.

Some readers will remember that Raul and Lauren visited several châteaus in their 2007 trip to France. The Swiss château differs in that construction of the buildings began much earlier, before the 11th or 12th centuries. It also consists of numerous distinct buildings constructed over several centuries. Furthermore, this castle functioned primarily as an administrative and defensive fortification, not as a permanent residence. The château is built on a rocky island just a few meters off the coast of Lake Geneva, so it occupies an excellent defensive position. Raul and Lauren’s tour of the castle finished with a walk along the sentry wall and a climb to the top of the castle’s keep.

They strolled back to Montreux along a lovely lake-side path, posed with a statue of Freddie Mercury, and caught a train to their final destination for the day, Lausanne.

After checking in at Hotel du Marché, they visited the Collection del’Art Brut, a museum featuring the works of untrained artists. Many of these artists were locked up, either because society viewed them as insane or because they were criminals. Others were seen as “normal,” but they led mundane lives as soldiers, policemen, and laborers before tapping into their creative spirit. The works were as varied as they were creative, and one never knew what to expect next.

Raul and Lauren then enjoyed a light dinner at Café Romand. Lauren had a warm goat cheese salad, the likes of which they had not tasted since their last trip to France.

After dinner, they explored the old town. They noted the differences in architecture as well as the diverse ethnic make-up of the population. Also, this was the first Swiss city where litter and refuse were commonly seen on the streets and sidewalks.

Now that Raul and Lauren are in the French-speaking part of the country, they are somewhat more efficient at communicating with the locals due to their combined knowledge of French. The travellers have found that throughout Switzerland and Austria, when they speak to someone using the local greeting, the local always replies in German, Italian, or French. This is in stark contrast to their experience in Spain and especially France, where a “Bonjour!”, more often than not, resulted in a reply in English. In Zermatt last night, Raul greeted the restaurant owner in German. She replied with a flurry of incomprehensible words to which Raul replied, “Ich verstehe nicht,” (“I don’t understand”). Her first assumption was that he spoke Hochdeutsch, the “High” German spoken in Germany and asked, “Verstehen sie Hochdeutsch?” It seems laughable to Raul and Lauren that someone would think them capable or fluent in German, high or otherwise.

Flag
Confœderatio Helvetica
Coat of Arms

Time Plan Sleep in
Day 15 Wednesday 30 May Lausanne
08:01 Depart Lausanne platform 3 on S1 12119, direction: Villeneuve, 1/hr
Duration: 34m
08:35 Arrive Veytaux-Chillon, walk 10 minutes to ▲▲▲Château de Chillon
09:00 ▲▲▲Château de Chillon, closes at 19:00
Saved S₣12
13:00 Return to Lausanne
13:00 City History Museum (Musée Historique de Lausanne), closes at 17:00
Saved S₣8
15:00 ▲▲Collection de l’Art Brut, closes at 18:00
Saved S₣10
17:30 Go to Ouchy and the waterfront
Sights

Day 14 – Gornergrat

Breakfast at the Youth Hostel surpassed the low expectations set by the previous day’s unappetizing dinner. Descending into town, Raul procured nourishment from the budget-friendly grocery store, Coop, while Lauren set forth to purchase their train tickets to Gornergrat.

From the 10,270 ft viewpoint, they enjoyed a sweeping Alpine panorama, including the Matterhorn, a half-dozen glaciers, and many more peaks as high or higher than they were. It was immediately apparent that the air was much thinner at this altitude, so they took things slowly. Also immediately apparent as they stepped off the train were two giant dogs. They were St. Bernards complete with brandy barrels around their necks. Raul did not ask if he could have a taste. Evidently Lauren had no idea what the barrels were for and did not believe Raul’s precise explanation.

Before oxygen deprivation could take its toll, they boarded a train bound for Zermatt and got off at the penultimate stop. From here, Raul and Lauren hiked a couple hours downhill into town.

Back at the hostel, a break was in order, after which they explored three of Zermatt’s grocery stores. They still haven’t found a good selection of bar soap. It seems likely that the Swiss prefer liquid soap. Similar to Pontresina, a number of Zermatt’s restaurants are closed until June, including two recommended by their guidebook. They walked along the main drag and dined on fondue at a quieter establishment just off the road.

In contrast to the planned itinerary below, Raul and Lauren are leaving for Lausanne in the morning.

Flag
Confœderatio Helvetica
Coat of Arms

Time Plan Sleep in
Day 14 Tuesday 29 May Lausanne
Hiking routes
Hiking routes PDF map
08:30 Underground funicular from Zermatt to Sunnegga, S₣12 round-trip, every 10-20 minutes
Duration: 8m
Saved S₣12
08:38 Hike to Blauherd and back, eat along the way if possible
12:30 Descend from Sunnegga to Zermatt
13:36 Train to Gornergrat, S₣20, sit on the right side, every hour
Duration: 33m
Saved S₣20
14:09 Arrive Gornergrat
15:31 Depart Gornergrat to Rotenboden, ~S₣4,50
Duration: 5m
Saved ~S₣4,50
15:36 Hike to Riffelberg
16:34 Depart Riffleberg to Zermatt, S₣14,50
Duration: 29m
Saved S₣14,50
17:03 Arrive Zermatt
18:13 Depart Zermatt platform 3 on R 264 to Visp
Total duration: 3h 02m
Saved S₣37,50
19:23 Arrive Visp, transfer to platform 4/5 on IR 1438
19:36 Depart Visp
21:15 Arrive Lausanne
21:20 Check in at Lausanne Guesthouse, S₣106/night double, or S₣76,80/night dorm (3 nights), no breakfast, free Wi-Fi
Tel: +41 021-601-8000
info@lausanne-guesthouse.ch

Day 13 – Glacial Express

Don Quixote and Sancho sallied forth this morning to St. Moritz from Samedan, intent upon finding adventure and honor on the Glacier Express bound for Zermatt. The trip would take a long eight hours and would deposit them in the town nearest the Matterhorn, that famous craggy peak.

But let’s not get ahead of ourselves. The adventurers surely could not depart on an empty stomach. They enjoyed a delicious breakfast of cereals, yogurt, cold cuts, cheese, jams, and breads–typical of what they normally partake of and of excellent quality. This was yet another way in which Hotel Palazzo Mysanus exceeded all others so far.

Raul and Lauren’s railway journey was long but immensely more comfortable than by plane. The travellers opted to upgrade from second to first class due to the length of the trip. Also for the first time, they had a proper meal on a train.

The Glacier Express slowly (sometimes, at 20 m.p.h.) carried its passengers over countless bridges and viaducts, through dozens of tunnels, often perched on the edge of gorges and canyons, and over high mountain passes using a rack and pinion engine and track to overcome 12.5% grades. The terrain varied from the green, Alpine meadows of the Engadine valleys to the barren tundra above the tree line to boulder-lined landscapes reminiscent of the Rocky Mountains of North America. The views were fantastic and endless. Lauren took a nap after lunch, not because she wanted to but because the Dramamine and the gentle rocking of the train made her drowsy.

Once in Zermatt, they checked into their room at the Youth Hostel and dined on the included dinner, which was barely mediocre. They do not plan to partake tomorrow.

A stroll through the traffic-free lanes of Zermatt was all they had time for before calling it a night.

Flag
Confœderatio Helvetica
Coat of Arms

Time Plan Sleep in
Day 13 Monday 28 May Zermatt
07:56 Depart Pontresina on R 4624 to St. Moritz
Duration: 12m
Saved S₣2,50
08:08 Arrive St. Moritz
09:15 Depart St. Moritz on D 905, S₣33 seat reservation – Glacier Express, upgrade to 1st class, S₣96
Duration: 7h 45m
Saved S₣136
12:30 Three-course lunch on Glacier Express, S₣43, 11:00-13:30
17:00 Arrive Zermatt
17:20 Check in at Zermatt Youth Hostel, S₣114,20/night (1-2 nights), includes breakfast & dinner
Tel: +41 027-967-2320
zermatt@youthhostel.ch
17:30 ▲Wander the Town or ▲▲Matterhorn Museum, closes at 18:00
Sights

Day 12 – Geschlossen bis Juni

Hotel San Carlo’s breakfast room seemed too small for the size of the hotel, and Lauren and Raul indeed had to wait for a table. After a hurried breakfast, Lauren had the uncomfortable encounter of overhearing the proprietor telling an Asian woman that she and her party had stayed too long at breakfast–over an hour–and that she should not take so much time, as other guests needed to eat as well. Lauren was very surprised at this sentiment, because Europeans simply don’t hurry through meals.

Raul and Lauren rushed to the bus stop adjacent to the train station above the town and boarded the Bernina Express bus bound for Tirano, Italy. The bus ride was bumpy and jerky, in stark contrast to their train journeys. The rocking put Lauren to sleep as it usually does. They waited an hour and a half in Tirano for their official Bernina Express train connection and used that time to explore the town’s vast Sunday market.

The Bernina Express train journey was breathtaking, with numerous switchbacks that allow the train to climb to 7,380 ft–higher than they were on Mount Pilatus. Amazingly, this ascent is achieved without the use of a cogwheel.

They arrived in Pontresina ready to check in to their chosen hotel. After a steep climb to the town’s center, they found that not only was their hotel closed until June, but so were the other five they checked. Evidently there is a lull between the winter and summer seasons when many establishments shutter their doors. With little choice left, Raul and Lauren found an open hotel in the nearby town of Samedan, the Hotel Palazzo Mysanus. Being one of the more expensive options, it wasn’t their first choice, but it was their only choice. In this case, the expense was well worth it, as this hotel was by far the nicest one they have stayed at thus far.

A tour of the town led them to a dramatic viewpoint by the Church of St. Peter. From here, they could survey the valley and peaks surrounding Samedan. Even though Samedan is in a valley, the altitude is still over 6,000 ft.

They caught the next train to the nearby resort town of St. Moritz for dinner. Just as Pontresina and Samedan had been, St. Moritz was virtually deserted, and most businesses were closed until later in June. They dined at probably the only open restaurant, Restaurant Hauser, and returned to Samedan for the night. Needless to say, they did not spot any celebrities.

Since most places were closed, they decided to travel on to Zermatt the next morning, rather than spend Monday in the Upper Engadine region. So, their itinerary has been slightly derailed.

Flag
Confœderatio Helvetica
Coat of Arms

Time Plan Sleep in
Day 12 Sunday 27 May Pontresina
10:00 Depart Lugano on Bus 5950, S₣12 seat reservation – Bernina Express
Total duration: 6h 26m
Saved S₣52
13:00 Arrive Tirano
14:22 Depart Tirano on D 960, S₣12 seat reservation – Bernina Express
16:26 Arrive Pontresina, bus 2 from Pontresina, Post leaves for Segantini Museum at 16:48
16:30 Check in at Hotel Engadinerhof, S₣120/night (2 nights)
Tel: +41 081-839-3100
info@engadinerhof.com
17:30 Visit St. Moritz, 10m train, 1/hr

Day 11 – Dark Chocolate Gelato…Mmmm

Raul and Lauren took an early train from Luzern, in central Switzerland, to reach Lugano, a mid-sized town three hours away in the southern, Italian part of the country. Their route followed one of the four famous scenic rail journeys in Switzerland, that of the William Tell Express, although they took a standard train and not the official one. A lot changed in this short trip: they crossed into the canton of Ticino; the architecture is of stone, not wood; the climate is warmer; and the people are Italian-speaking. Indeed, when they departed Luzern, announcements were given in German, and upon arriving, they were made in Italian. There is a very Mediterranean feel about the city, and it’s easy to believe that Lake Lugano is really the Mediterranean Sea (except here, one can see the other side of the lake!).

Although Raul and Lauren arrived by 11:00 a.m., their hotel room was already prepared, so they were able to check in and leave their bags. A tour of the cute town took only a short time, and they walked along the lakefront toward San Salvatore. On the way, Lauren had dark chocolate gelato, and for once, it really was dark. It was the best she’s ever had.

Finally, they arrived at the funicular that would take them up San Salvatore. This mountain, standing at 2990 ft, is small compared to its northern counterparts, but it affords good panoramic views of the city and surrounding countryside. Unfortunately, the atmosphere was exceptionally hazy. In clearer weather, it would have been possible to see Milano, Italy.

After descending the mountain, they walked on to a ferry just as it was departing for Italy. Their destination was the nearby fishing village of Gandria. Luckily, the ferry stopped there before continuing on its course.

Perched on a terrace high above the lake, the Taranusauruses enjoyed a quick appetizer of tagliatelle noodles in a creamy Gorgonzola sauce. They returned afterwards to Lugano.

In Lugano, Raul and Lauren spent the evening strolling the lakeside promenade and ate dinner on the Piazza della Riforma. When abroad, Lauren likes to try new dishes, so she chose fresh gnocchi with zaffron cream sauce. It was too bad she didn’t like it. The service was also very slow, a fact that made the feeling of being in Italy even stronger. Raul did not mind the slow service as much, since they were in Lugano to relax.

Flag
Confœderatio Helvetica
Coat of Arms

Time Plan Sleep in
Day 11 Saturday 26 May Lugano
08:06 Depart Luzern platform 11B on S3 21331
Total duration: 2h 39m
Saved S₣28
08:38 Arrive Arth-Goldau, transfer to platform 4 on ICN 661
08:47 Depart Arth-Goldau
10:46 Arrive Lugano, drop off bags at Albergo Montarina
Tel: +41 091-966-7272
info@montarina.ch
11:00 Self-guided walk
13:00 San Salvatore, ascend via funicular, S₣12, 09:00-19:30
Saved S₣12
16:13 Take ferry from Paradiso to Gandria
Duration: 19m
Saved S₣24,20
18:15 Return to Paradiso via ferry
Duration: 25m
19:15 Check in at Albergo Montarina, S₣60 two bunk beds including sheets, S₣12 breakfast buffet, free wifi

Day 10 – Planes, Trains, and Automobiles

The first destination this morning was Luzern’s Jesuit Church. The Rococo interior is bright and airy, with clear glass windows, white walls, and pink stucco marble. It stands in contrast to churches of darker interiors with stained glass.

Since their hostel does not provide breakfast, Raul and Lauren headed to Bäckerei Hug to “recharge,” as Lauren would say. They had rösti and raclette. With bellies full, Lauren navigated the bus system, and they arrived at the famous Lion Monument of Luzern. Despite their guidebook’s description of the monument being huge, Lauren was still astounded by its immensity. The sculpture of the wounded lion commemorates the Swiss guards who died defending the French king during the Revolution. Surprisingly, Lauren did not cry at the sight of the tears and pain evident on the noble beast’s muzzle. It is difficult for her to be so moved when there are hordes of tourists about.

With their emotional needs fulfilled, Raul and Lauren proceeded to satiate their intellectual thirst over the next several hours with a visit to the Swiss Transport Museum. They explored all modes of transport in Switzerland, including trains, trams, automobiles, bicycles, sailing vessels, aircraft, and high mountain lifts. One of the features that sets this museum apart from its drier counterparts is the multitude of interactive exhibits.

For example, in the building dedicated to automotive transport, there is a wall where dozens of vehicles from all eras are stacked on individual shelves. These are actual automobiles, not models, mind you. A robotic lifter is commanded by museum visitors to retrieve any one of the automobiles and bring it to the theater/viewing platform. A short presentation on the history of that particular model is then given. This was the highlight for Raul in terms of interactive exhibits. Other highlights include: a 1/20 scale model of a dual carriage alpine lift that can be operated on command, a full size replica of one of the earliest aircraft where one lies prone to fly it–complete with controls and flight simulator, nautical knot tying, vision tests, and countless others.

In the courtyard between the buildings, there was a test track where one could test drive a Chevy Volt, ride electric bicycles, or try out Segways. Lauren dislikes Segways, but she tried one anyway–she still dislikes them. Both had fun on electric bicycles. Raul gave the brakes a good test when he almost ran over some pedestrians.

It was a long day with much to see and do at the museum but well worth the time and entrance fee.

They finished the evening with a visit to Luzern’s public library and dinner at Restaurant Rathaus Bräuerei. Lauren ate Swiss macaroni and cheese while Raul had ravioli in tomato-butter sauce.

Flag
Confœderatio Helvetica
Coat of Arms

Time Plan Sleep in
Day 10 Friday 25 May Luzern
08:30 Self-guided walk
11:30 ▲Lion Monument (Löwendenkmal), free
12:00 ▲▲Swiss Transport Museum (Verkehrshaus), takes a half day, S₣15, 10:00-18:00, walk or take a boat from train station
Saved S₣15
16:00 ▲▲Rosengart Collection (Sammlung Rosengart Luzern), free, 10:00-18:00
Saved S₣18
18:00 Bicycle ride along lakeside paths

Day 9 – Seilpark

Raul and Lauren awoke to yet another cloudy day. They deliberated over whether to do their mountain excursion today or tomorrow and ended up choosing to stick to their planned itinerary. They purchased their gondola tickets for Mount Pilatus and got in line to board. Ahead of them was an Asian couple, and Raul and Lauren decided to let them ride alone in the gondola, even though there was room for four per cabin. Thinking they would get to ride in private, they boarded the next one but quickly realized that the two older gentlemen behind them were more focused on efficiency than courtesy.

The first order of business in this excursion was a few hours of Alpine recreation. Disembarking at Fräkmüntegg, the tree-line of Mount Pilatus, they were the first in line for the mile-long summer toboggan run. Raul breezed through the run quickly, while Lauren rode the brake most of the way down.

After this quick diversion, they proceeded to the Seilpark (Rope Park). Here, there are ten courses of varying difficulty, wherein one must negotiate a series of challenges utilizing ropes and platforms high among the trees. They donned their harnesses, helmets, and gloves and listened to the comprehensive instructions. Then they completed the obligatory, introductory course. Lauren was ready to quit, but she found the willpower to go through a second, slightly more challenging segment. It wasn’t long until she was in tears, and this was the last one she did. Raul was eager to continue and chose a blue course, marked Difficult, while Lauren watched and photographed from below. Here, the height was ramped up considerably and lacking were the handholds present in the previous courses. There were also sections with netting that were annoying because one has to stop to hook and rehook the safety carabiners with every step. Lucky for Raul, his memory has already erased the terror he too felt at the dizzying heights in the trees.

After a few more courses that culminated with a leap of faith from the top of a tower, Raul and Lauren ascended to the summit of Mount Pilatus via cable car. They took in the views and ate the sandwich they had packed. Finally, they descended the other side of the mountain on the world’s steepest cogwheel train with grades up to 48%. That’s more than halfway to a right angle!

At the base of the mountain, they boarded a ferry that would take them back to Luzern. The evening was spent eating on the riverfront again–this time, traditional Swiss fondue.

Flag
Confœderatio Helvetica
Coat of Arms

Time Plan Sleep in
Day 09 Thursday 24 May Luzern
Pilatus timetables
Lake Luzern timetables

Luzern area day trip
9:00 City bus #1 to Kriens, walk 10m to the gondola station following Pilatus signs
9:30 Gondola to Fräkmüntegg, S₣34
Duration: 30m
Saved S₣34
10:00 Luge ride (Fräkigaudi), S₣8, 10:00-12:00, 13:15-17:00
10:30 Pilatus Rope Park (Seilpark), S₣27, 10:00-17:00
13:30 Cable car to observation platform at Pilatus Kulm
13:45 Hikes at Pilatus summit
15:00 Cogwheel train to Alpnachstad
Duration: 40m
16:35 Boat to Luzern, free
Duration: 1h 5m
Saved S₣19
17:40 Bicycle ride along lakeside paths

Day 8 – Should Have Listened to Karl Pilkington

Raul and Lauren originally had hopes for a five-hour hike today on Ebenalp. Last night, however, they found out that several trails were closed due to an avalanche last week. They had decided to have a go on some trails which were open, but as luck would have it, a thick cloud enveloped the mountaintop all morning, making it impossible to hike a great distance. And since clouds are full of moisture, it would have been an unpleasantly wet trek in any case.

After dining on a breakfast of bread, jams, and the regional Appenzeller cheese, they decided then to simply walk back up to the mountain summit to take the cable car down to the train station and thence proceed on to their next destination, Luzern.

Signage on the trails gives approximate lengths of hikes in minutes, but with the weight of their backpacks, it took Lauren and Raul double the posted time to navigate the trail.

Sadly, they had put off taking many pictures the previous night thinking they would take them in better light the next day. The joke was on them because the cloud cover resulted in a visibility of about ten yards this morning. On the bright side, this is a reason to return here on a future trip.

Once in Luzern, they set about securing lodging for the next three nights. Despite travelling before the commencement of the high season, they are finding it surprisingly difficult to travel without reservations. Hotels they planned to patronize have often been full.

With their bags stowed at their hostel, they enjoyed a relaxing dinner on the banks of Luzern’s Reuss River and a stroll through the medieval Old Town.

On the way back to the hostel, they explored Luzern’s Rail City, an underground shopping mall at the train station, and purchased some snacks they have come to enjoy. Sadly, these will not be available to buy in the U.S., so that sucks. This is why one should not try foods which are not available where one lives. Best case, you hate it; worst case, you love it and can’t have it at home.

Also on the way home, they caught the last ten minutes of a high school soccer match. It was a close game, so the crowd was very excited and the play spirited.

Flag
Confœderatio Helvetica
Coat of Arms

Ebenalp view

Time Plan Sleep in
Day 08 Wednesday 23 May – ▲▲▲Happy Anniversary! Luzern
08:00 Hike Route 10, 5 hours
15:00 Take cable car down to Wasserauen after picking up bags from Aescher
Saved S₣13,50
15:19 Depart Wasserauen on R 1152
Total duration: 3h 1m, trains approximately every hour
Saved S₣26
16:06 Arrive Herisau, transfer to IR 2426
16:10 Depart Herisau
18:20 Arrive Luzern
18:35 Check in at Backpackers Luzern, S₣82 double room, no breakfast (3 nights)
Tel: +41 360-0420
info@backpackerslucerne.ch
19:30 Dinner at Nix in der Laterne, make reservation
Tel: +41 240-2543
info@nixinderlaterne.ch
Transit info
Lake Luzern info

Sights

Sleeping

Eating
  • Opus, upscale, S₣25-38
  • Nix in der Laterne, romantic, S₣50 2-course dinner, S₣35 plates, S₣20 lunch
  • Restaurant Taube, traditional Swiss, Rösti S₣26, S₣18 2-course lunch
  • Restaurant Schiff, traditional Swiss, S₣25-35
  • Bakeries: Hug Bakery/Café and Heini Bakery/Café
  • Self-Service Cafeteria: Manora, S₣6-15, closed Sun

Day 7 – Barfussweg

The adventurers left Salzburg with the first light of day. They wished to get to Switzerland as early as possible. Once they crossed into Switzerland, they needed to validate their Swiss Pass, which allows them to use all public transportation in Switzerland without having to buy tickets. This is extremely convenient, but they missed their connection in St. Margrethen while they waited for their pass to be validated. They arrived in Appenzell a half-hour behind schedule as a result. Still, they made time to do the Barfussweg (Barefoot Walk) and caught the last lift of the day up to Ebenalp.

The Barefoot Walk features a variety of materials on which to walk, such as large, smooth stones, sharp gravel, wood chips, grass, mud, tree stumps, and some stretches of asphalt. The path took them through farms in the Appenzeller countryside, and they were treated to a peaceful symphony of cow and goat bells ringing from all the surrounding hills. There were also stations of very cold alpine water using principles from a Swiss therapist, Sebastian Kneipp, who advocated the use of varying water temperatures and pressures for good health. Lauren and Raul think Kneipp had a good idea, for they experienced the invigorating properties of mountain water for themselves on this walk as well as in Hallstatt when they dipped their feet into a cold stream after the long hike to the waterfall.

They experienced a rarity in Swiss punctuality while travelling to the Ebenalp lift. Two trains they waited for were several minutes tardy. This is why they were on the very last lift of the day to Ebenalp. Once up on the mountain, they could only hope that Berggasthaus Äscher would have beds for them. Had they been turned away, they would have faced an arduous hike down the mountain in the fading light with all their belongings on their backs. Fortunately, there was room for them at the inn, so they unloaded and ate a hearty dinner of rösti, a traditional Swiss dish akin to hashbrowns. Raul ordered his with melted Appenzeller cheese and two fried eggs on top, while Lauren had hers plain. Raul says it’s because she’s boring. Lauren realized that Romanians eat their salad with the main course, and not before, because they don’t drink water during the meal. Lauren has learned to spread out the meager eight ounces she is given throughout a three-course dinner.

At the moment, Raul is enjoying a kaffe lutz (sp?), which is an alchemical concoction of unknown composition. It probably has some spirits and coffee in it, and it’s hot, which is good, as it is unseasonably chilly and also quite cloudy.

Berggasthaus Äscher is one of a score and eight mountain inns in the area surrounding Ebenalp which serve as a refuge for the mountain-top adventurers. Äscher is uniquely situated in and under a cliff. The cliff prominently forms the back wall of the building. They are sleeping on a mat in an upstairs space for eight to ten souls. The sleeping quarters have no external heat source. The only heating in the building is a wood-stove in the dining area. Thus, they will rely on their own bodies’ warmth to get them through the night.

Flag
Confœderatio Helvetica
Coat of Arms

Alpine Meadow

Time Plan Sleep in
Day 07 Tuesday 22 May Ebenalp
Swiss rail network map
Swiss rail timetables
Ebenalp hiking map
06:53 Depart Salzburg Hauptbahnhof platform 3DF on IC 118
Total duration (to St. Margrethen): 5h 10m, €51,90
11:38 Arrive Bregenz, transfer to platform 1AB on S 3 (Train-No. 5769)
11:48 Depart Bregenz
12:03 Arrive St. Margrethen, transfer to platform 1 on S 2 (Train-No. 23250)
12:08 Depart St. Margrethen
Duration: 1h 16m
Saved S₣6,60
12:50 Arrive Herisau, transfer to R 1127
12:54 Depart Herisau
13:24 Arrive Appenzell! Find somewhere to deposit bags
13:33 Take train to Jakobsbad for Barefoot Walk, next train 30 minutes later
13:45 Barefoot Walk (Barfussweg), 1,5 hours
15:19 Return to Appenzell from Gontenbad, next train 30 minutes later
15:30 Take train to Wasserauen, next train 30 minutes later
15:45 Take Ebenalp lift up the mountain, last lift at 17:00, S₣9,50/13,50
Saved S₣9,50
16:00 Hike and check in to Berggasthaus Aescher, dorm bed S₣45, cash only (1 night)
Tel: +41 071-799-1142
info@aescher-ai.ch
16:30 Hike Route 1, 50 minutes